Home to a diverse mix of celebrities, old-school French families, and a melting pot of Europeans from across the continent, Nice is unlike any other place in France I’ve ever visited. From its glittering beach clubs to its beautiful old town and quiet residential neighborhoods, it has a real, authentic culture all its own. While there, I kind of dubbed it the French San Diego: beachy, relaxed, full of history, and littered with yachts. It serves as the perfect starting or ending point for a trip to the French Riviera or even Provence thanks to the availability of train lines and flights within both France and abroad. Here’s how to spend the perfect three days in the jewel of the south.

GETTING IN + AROUND

Thankfully, getting to Nice is pretty easy. From New York City, there’s actually a nonstop flight from Newark on United or on Delta from JFK. Makes getting there pretty simple from the East Coast (and honestly, it’s a large part of why I chose it)! From Nice, you can also take direct TGV trains from the train station to a wide variety of locations within Europe, and you can also fly directly to Nice from several European and UK hubs, like London Heathrow and Berlin.

Once you’re in, getting around is pretty easy, too. The city has a tramway, (with a line that goes directly through the airport – no need for an expensive taxi!) a robust bus system, and local trains that run fairly often to nearby small towns and villages (from Cannes and Antibes to Menton and western Italy). Each tramway system has a transit card machine and you pay per ride. You can buy all your train tickets at the train station or purchase them in advance using the SNCF CONNECT transit app (available in English as well as in French for ease of use). My favorite way to get around, though, was walking. The Promenade des Anglais is a stunning walkway that runs the length of Nice along the Mediterranean beach. It makes for a beautiful stroll or the most direct way to get into the old town.

WHERE TO STAY

Thanks to its massive tourism focus, there’s no shortage of places to stay in Nice! Unlike other areas in France, where Airbnbs are plentiful and really high-quality, I struggled to find a good one in the city, and opted instead for the Hôtel Amour – Nice. I cannot recommend this hotel enough! It’s located in a more quiet neighborhood away from the party scene and bustle of old Nice but was still centrally located and is a five minute walk to the beach. The hotel has a fantastic restaurant, beautiful rooms, a rooftop with a pool, and its own private beach, La Plage Amour. If you’re looking for a splurge, La Pérouse is stunning and came highly recommended as well.

DAY 1

If your first day in Nice is on a Friday or Saturday between June and September, I highly recommend taking the little navette shuttle bus up to visit the wine region in the hills just north of the city: Bellet. It’s one of France’s oldest winemaking regions – with origins dating back to the 5th century B.C. Most of the producers accept walk-ins, but you’ll need to make a reservation at Collet de Bovis (one of my favorite wines from the region – worth a visit if you love small producers!)

A must-visit in the wine region, however, is the appellation’s largest producer: Château de Crémat. Its colorful, imposing art-déco style house and grounds today house an art museum as well as a tasting area and wine shop. Book a tour and you’ll notice the Chanel logo everywhere – Château de Crémat served as the inspiration for Coco Chanel’s eponymous label!

After a long day of wine tasting, make a dinner reservation at Lavomatique, a tiny, hole-in-the-wall restaurant serving up some of Nice’s most delicious food. Everything at Lavomatique is sourced locally from small producers and every wine on the rotating list is organic, biodynamic, and often created through regenerative agriculture. The menu is divine and the waitstaff are a cast of multilingual characters that make people watching a spectator sport. Don’t miss it and make a reservation well in advance!

DAY 2

Blessed with a sunny, warm day during your time in Nice? Spend it at the beach! If you’re staying at the Hôtel Amour, you can get a spot at the Plage Amour reserved for you by the front desk. Spend the whole day staring out into the Mediterranean with beachside food and refreshments. They’re a bit overpriced but the front row view of the Med is unbeatable.

If you’re more of a public beach-goer, you might want to head out to Juan-les-Pins or Antibes, both of which are a couple quick train stops from the center of town and have sandy beaches (versus the pebbles in Nice). Before you go, though, make sure to grab a couple of sandwiches from Panivore! This fun little sandwich spot has some delicious combos perfect for a day in the sun. You can even order to-go from the website in advance.

After a fun day in the sun, head over to Babel Babel for dinner. This delightful Greek and Mediterranean spot looks right out onto the Promenade des Anglais for a beautiful sunset view (not to mention the people watching).

DAY 3

Start your final day in the city with a morning stroll to the Flower Market at Cours Saleya (or, if your last day is on a Monday, the antiques market is just as excellent and in the same spot). Grab a couple of sandwiches to go from Panivore or a local bakery, and hike up for a picnic lunch at Colline du Château. Located on the edge of the Vieille Ville, Le Château can trace is origins back to the Roman period but the grounds were completely renovated at the turn of the 20th century, when it was transformed into a beautiful public park and children’s play area. It has some of the most incredible views of Nice – and not just from the top! The winding, stone pedestrian path has stunning vistas around every corner.

Walk back down the hill and take the bus or tramway out to the Musée Matisse in the north of the city. Matisse’s life on the French Riviera produced some iconic paintings, many of which feature that signature Mediterranean blue and are worth admiring in person. A ticket to the museum not only grants you access to view Matisse’s masterpieces but also the Underwater Archaeology Museum, which is an absolutely fascinating addition if you’ve got another free hour. Don’t miss it!

For a quick drink after all that sight-seeing, I can’t recommend Le Barrique Wine Bar enough. This tiny little hole-in-the-wall spot has delicious small plates and one of my favorite concepts in wine: no wine menus. Instead, you tell the server what you’re in the mood for, and they’ll bring you out something that suits your vibe. All wines at Le Barrique are organic and biodynamic and many are made in the natural style. End your trip in style with excellent food for dinner at Le Patio of Hotel La Pérouse. This beautiful, upscale restaurant, nestled in one of Nice’s most exquisite luxury enclaves, feels equal parts romantic and intimate.

Nice has been admired by travelers around the world for centuries due to its proximity to the glittering Mediterranean, the border with Italy, and slow-living à la française. A real mélange of people, lifestyles, architecture, and history, there’s something here for everyone. If you only have three days to spend in the city, you won’t be disappointed. Enjoy exploring! Bon voyage !

Looking for more quick French travel guides? Check out my 48 Hours in Champagne, 72 Hours in Strasbourg, or The Paris List.

I first explored Bordeaux a decade ago as an English language teaching assistant. I vaguely remembered its stunning Miroir d’Eau, proximity to the beautiful medieval town of Saint-Emilion, and the way the wine trade was woven into the very fabric of the place itself. Beyond that, I couldn’t remember much. So when Barton + Guestier invited me to attend their 300th Anniversary Gala at the Palais de la Bourse, I seized the opportunity and returned to a French city that felt both familiar and completely brand new. What resulted was twelve days of unforgettable adventures, some of my new favorite wines, and renewed hope for an industry a lot of naysayers claim has no future.

Here’s everything I recommend checking out on your next trip to Bordeaux.

GETTING IN + AROUND

Bordeaux has its own airport with lots of connecting flights from the U.S. going through Paris (less than an hour away by air), London, or Frankfurt. But in my opinion, the best way to get there is via train. It’s just about two hours direct from Paris on the TGV, and it’s one of my most favorite train rides in all of France. Less expensive, better for the environment – and book a window seat for the view. I always recommend reserving a ticket as soon as you nail down your plans, and to buy tickets directly from the SNCF (the French national railway) website to avoid scammy sites and non-direct train routes. They have a super convenient app you can download, too, which makes traveling a breeze. Plus – everything is available in English nowadays!

Once you get to Bordeaux, getting around the city center is easy as pie. The famous Bordeaux tramway is cheap and convenient to use. You can buy a pass online or via the app for the duration of your stay and you can activate it on trams, buses, and even use it for bikes. I got an unlimited 7-day pass for my time there and used it multiple times a day to get around. Just make sure you look up the construction they’re doing in advance as they’re constantly improving the tramway so some of the stops or routes get skipped or rerouted during certain times of the year.

DRIVING + PARKING IN BORDEAUX

You don’t need to rent a car in Bordeaux if you want to 1) stay within the city center, and/or 2) explore the wine region exclusively through tour operators/providers. Everyone’s different, though, so if you can find a tour provider that gives you access to the producers you’re most interested in, that’s probably the easiest and safest bet. I’m telling you this because there’s no way around it: driving in Bordeaux is not for the faint of heart. Getting out of the city is challenging and the roads getting into the wine region are both highly trafficked and under construction. There are seemingly endless jams and it often takes several hours to get to a winery from the city center. Leave early and give yourself plenty of time to get places (and I mean plenty of time – I was late to a few appointments despite leaving 15-20 minutes earlier than I planned to!). Plan ahead. You’ll need more time than your Maps app thinks you do.

Parking, too, is unfortunately a bit of a nightmare. There are free parking lots within Bordeaux but, per the Google reviews, they’re not a safe place to leave your car overnight as break-ins are common. I got into a bit of a sticky situation with a public (paid and securized) parking lot where I physically could not get my car out of the lot because the city of Bordeaux decided they were only going to accept coins that day (it’s a story that’s funny now but at the time was one of the most frustrating days I’ve ever spent in France. Ever cried from frustration in a public transit corporate office? Can’t say I recommend it). Ultimately, I ended up parking at the Interparking Cité du Vin which is easily the nicest parking lot in the city. Plus, it’s at the edge of town, so it’s easier to get onto the highway and away from the traffic. You’ll pay a pretty penny for it (it’s about 22€ for 24 hours can add up pretty quickly), but for me it was worth the cost. It’s brand new, has plenty of room, and has 24/7 security so I had no qualms about leaving my rental there overnight. Plus, it’s the perfect jumping-off point for visiting the Cité du Vin! For me, a car was necessary because I wanted flexibility to see some very specific producers. I’m glad I had it but I also wish I had made sure I had more time in between visits to account for traffic!

WHERE TO STAY

I split my time between an Airbnb and a hotel so I could review and recommend a couple of options for you here. The Airbnb I rented won in a landslide and I cannot recommend a stay there enough! Located in Bordeaux’s best neighborhood, Chartrons, Chez Jeanne is a stunning apartment in a 19th century building with incredible natural light, a beautiful kitchen, and a wonderfully soft living room. The original fireplace is magnificent (not that you’ll need it in summer!), the bed is super comfortable, and Jeanne is a kind and welcoming host. She even wrote a full book of recommendations for Bordeaux (containing everything from bakeries to day trips out of the city) for her guests to consult during their stay. I absolutely loved her home and hope someday to return!

The other place where I stayed toward the end of my time in the city was Mama Shelter – Bordeaux. It’s a 3-star hotel so if you’re on a budget, it’s a decent option, but it was pretty bare bones and didn’t have a lot of the essentials I was hoping for (there’s no coffee / tea in the room, no drinking water, minimal amounts of soap in the shower, etc.). The location is right downtown, so while it’s convenient to nightlife, shopping, and restaurants, getting a taxi or an Uber can be challenging. Ubers can’t go down many of the streets in the center of Bordeaux because they’re so narrow and pedestrian-only. As someone who walked 10k steps a day during my time in the city, I loved it, but as a traveler with multiple pieces of luggage – inconvenient. You can ask the hotel to call you a professional taxi that will arrive in front of the hotel but it can be a hassle if you have many suitcases and are on an Uber-level budget.

TOURIST ATTRACTIONS

There is SO much to do and see just within the city of Bordeaux, much less in its immediate environs! From Saint-Emilion to the Bassin d’Arcachon, life in (and out of!) Bordeaux is incredibly fun. I’m honestly jealous of my friends who live there! They really do have everything – sea, sun, mountains, vineyards, and a vibrant city center. Here’s a shortlist of just a few of the places I explored while there.

MONUMENTS:

Le Palais de la Bourse / Place de la Bourse – You can’t miss this stunning 18th century marvel! Make sure to walk one day into the center of Bordeaux to see it up close. Today, it serves as a meeting and events venue for gatherings from all over the world and I was lucky enough to attend a black tie gala there!

Le Miroir d’Eau – Just in front of the Palais de la Bourse is the magnificent “Water Mirror”. It’s a beautiful, flat water fountain they turn on at night in the summer. If you look directly at the Palais de la Bourse at night, the water mirror will reflect back the stunning façade, making for a beautiful photo or romantic moment.

Porte Cailhau – This beautiful, unique archway was erected in the 15th century to commemorate a French king’s victory in battle. It was later incorporated into the walls of the city of Bordeaux and today you can walk or bike straight through it to get to one of the city’s largest pedestrian plazas.

La Grosse Cloche – One of the largest bells in France, this beauty dates back to the 18th century and today is rung for special and somber occasions. I walked all around and under it, but sadly didn’t get to hear it ring. Guess I’ll have to go back!

Cathédrale Saint-André – Every French city has some version of a gothic cathedral – and Bordeaux is no exception to the rule. Step inside for a lesson in 13th century architecture, to take a break from the crowds, or escape from the heat.

MUSEUMS, PARKS, SHOPS:

La Cité du Vin – this is a MUST VISIT if you love wine (and if you don’t love wine, how on earth did you end up on my blog?!). I was completely blown away by the museum’s sheer size, design, presentation, and modern approach to wine education. From an immersive “dinner table” that walks you through a whole meal as the history of wine through light and sound to a virtual grape-stomping room, this place is extraordinary. Anyone visiting Bordeaux – even for just a few days – should plan to stop by!

Le Bassin des Lumières – An immersive art and history museum that focuses on bringing culture to life with light and sound. When I went, the focus exhibit was on Egypt and I learned a ton! Great place to bring kids, too.

Jardin Public – This beautiful, expansive park in the middle of Bordeaux has been maintained since the 18th century and remains a favorite among residents today. I posted up here after my museum morning with a sandwich from a local boulangerie to people-watch. It was a quiet, sunny afternoon and the park was welcoming and clean. Don’t miss the Belle Epoque style carousel and bridges!

Librairie Mollat – France’s largest independent bookstore. Covering multiple floors and several city blocks in the center of Bordeaux, you can find books here in dozens of languages covering all kinds of genres and subject matter (including a whole room on wine, food, and spirits). I spent an entire morning in here, bought a few books, a journal, and a calendar, and have zero regrets about it.

RESTAURANTS, BAKERIES, AND WINE BARS

Unsurprisingly, the restaurant scene in Bordeaux is pretty incredible. While I generally don’t think it can quite rival Paris or even Lyon in terms of the diversity of food available, there is a distinct southwestern French feel everywhere you go. I had some of the best pizza I’ve ever had in France here, their unique pastries are delicious, and of course – the wine bars are some of the best in France. Here are the places I loved discovering while there.

Peppone – My husband I have have a running argument about Italian food in France. It’s some of my favorite Italian food in the world (outside of perhaps Italy, the source, of course!), with an emphasis on craftsmanship, exceptional ingredients, and French precision. I always look for the best Italian spot in whatever French city I’m in because it’s a treat (and sorry, New York and New Jersey, but yes it’s better than what we have. Time to step up our game). Peppone is the best in Bordeaux, with a few different locations to hit your Italian cravings no matter where your homebase is. Highly recommend the margherita pizza and a classic salad.

Le Michel’s – This place is an institution. Located right smack dab in the center of Bordeaux, it has a bustling terrace that’s the perfect spot for people watching. Here, you’ll find classic French food and a great wine list. Worth a visit for lunch or dinner.

Les Halles de Bacalan – Located just across from the Cité du Vin, les Halles de Bacalan is a new food hall with nearly two dozen stands and plenty of tables (both indoors and outside overlooking the canal). Almost all the food on offer here is sourced locally, so you’re really getting a taste of Southwest France when you grab a drink, a meal, or a snack to go. It’s located in an area of Bordeaux where the locals live, so you’ll hear a lot of French and find yourself immersed in the social scene.

Tchanqué – New restaurant with a stunning rooftop located in the Chartrons district. You’ll find expansive views of the city and the river, great cocktails (especially the spritzes!), and modern, fresh cuisine. The service is pretty terrible (even my French friends commented, so don’t be shocked!) but if you’ve got a free night and nowhere to be, it’s a lovely spot to relax and unwind.

SOUKKA – Cute little Lebanese fast-casual restaurant in Chartrons. A great place to go for make-your-own bowls and homemade sauces. There’s a significant Lebanese diaspora in France so I always try to find a good Lebanese spot during my travels. Soukka was perfect for lunch!

Symbiose – Probably the best meal I had in Bordeaux. This place is small and unassuming but the food packs a punch. It’s hard to be pescatarian in the southwest of France because so much of classic French food relies on meats (especially the duck and charcuterie), but Symbiose embraces an “omnivore” menu, with several vegetarian and fish options in addition to the classics. Local, seasonal, and fresh ingredients are key to everything they do. Plus, it’s right on the water so if you dine outside you’ll get great people watching and and a view.

Le Sobre Chartrons – A classic in Bordeaux, everyone loves this place (multiple people recommended it to me!). You can try nearly 50 wines here from all around France, on offer through an automatic wine dispenser system where you pay per ounce. The staff are friendly, kind, and passionate about wine education (my kind of people!). Don’t forget to buy a couple small plates to go along with your wine for the perfect apéro.

Complanterra – Tucked away on a pedestrian street in the city center, you might miss Complanterra if you’re not looking for it, but a visit here during your stay in Bordeaux is essential. This is my favorite wine bar in Bordeaux. Focused exclusively on organic, biodynamic, and natural wines, they’re more than just a wine bar: they’re an educational space. They host wine tasting workshops downstairs in their intimate stone cellars while customers enjoy wine and food above. The concept is delightful, the wine list is exceptional, and the food is delicious. Don’t miss this spot on your next trip!

Boulangerie “Au Pétrin Moissagais” – This boulangerie’s claim to fame? It’s the oldest continually operating bakery in Bordeaux, with roots dating back to the 1760s (!). To honor their heritage, all their breads are baked in old stone ovens using traditional methods. While you’ll find the classic pastries and baguettes here, the star of the show is the pain Gascon (Gascony bread), a rustic, scrumptious loaf with an extra thick exterior crust. It certainly won’t last long, especially when topped with some classic French salted butter for breakfast in the morning. Yum.

La P’tite Boulangerie de Notre Dame – A tiny little bakery located just opposite a magnificent gothic church, this place has all the classics, and they’re done so well there’s always a line down the block. They’re part of a larger network of “p’tite boulangeries” that champions the work of passionate, artisanal bakers. Buy the cannelés and you won’t regret it.

THE WINE REGION

SAINT-EMILION

The closest wine region to the city of Bordeaux, Saint-Emilion is a stunning medieval gem of a city that is literally surrounded on all sides by vines. Home to some of the most storied Merlot-dominant vineyards in the world, you should make sure you spend at least 1-2 days exploring the old city and the wineries around it. One of the best ways to do so is to book an experience through Bordeaux Wine Trails. These small, intimate bike tours are offered in both French and English and led by wine experts. They offer a wide variety of tours throughout the Bordeaux region, but I booked the full-day Saint-Emilion option and had a blast. It ended up just being me and another young woman my age who was delightful to hang out with (you meet the best people while traveling!). It included a full day in the Saint-Emilion region, complete with transport to and from the city of Bordeaux in a small van, e-bike rental, two châteaux visits (we visited Château Rol Valentin and Château Grangey), and a little picnic lunch in between. We also rode our bikes into the medieval city of Saint-Emilion to see it up close and had enough time for a languorous wander through the village. (To read my thoughts about the wines we tasted at these two châteaux, check out the June Wine Reviews!)

I returned to Saint-Emilion the next day for a tasting at La Maison Cardinale. This is a must visit for anyone going to Bordeaux. If you only have a couple of days for visits, I cannot recommend Cardinale enough. The wines and property would be impressive on their own, but La Maison Cardinale has recently invested in its enotourism efforts and offers some fun, off-the-beaten track experiences, like a Polaroid scavenger hunt and a wine & music tasting that features the founders’ proprietary tasting mat. It’s a vibrant, modern way to learn about wine and I’m obsessed with their approach. Read more about my time there and how you can book your own experience in my latest piece for The Vintner Project: Reimagining Enotourism at La Maison Cardinale.

THE MEDOC, PAUILLAC, AND SAINT-JULIEN

I’m grouping all three of these appellations together because they make up a large percentage of what is generally referred to as the northern side of Left Bank Bordeaux. I visited quite a few châteaux in this subregion from all different levels of the classification system. From the crus bourgeois du Médoc to the grands crus classés, here’s where I recommend a visit.

Château Lagrange – 3ème grand cru classé – An absolutely stunning property in Saint-Julien, Château Lagrange was one of my favorite visits of the trip. They offer unique, upscale wine experiences, like a private vineyard tour in a refurbished Méhari and a personalized blending workshop. The grounds are among the most beautiful in Bordeaux thanks to a tranquil lake at the center with a view of the vines and the gorgeous, imposing façade.

Château Haut-Bages Libéral – 5ème grand cru classé – This was the farthest north I ventured during my time in Bordeaux, and while it is a bit of a trek to get all the way up to Pauillac, it’s a beautiful drive and this visit was well worth it. Haut-Bages Libéral essentially pioneered biodynamics in Bordeaux. Today, they continue to push boundaries and their wines are complex, aromatic, and truly alive. Book the agroecology tour for an inside look at what makes Haut-Bages Libéral so unique.

Château Léoville Poyferré – 2ème grand cru classé – I stopped by Château Léoville-Poyferré on a sunny afternoon for a light lunch in between visits. Their property is located within the town of Saint-Julien-Beychevelle, so you won’t get a direct view of the vines during your visit, but the terrace is lovely and the wines are stellar.

Château Magnol – cru bourgeois supérieur – Château Magnol is the official home of global importer and wine producer Barton & Guestier. They only open their doors for food & wine workshops, the Médoc’s portes ouvertes program every spring, and for professionals, but if you’re lucky enough to visit, you’ll be blown away by your time there. In the 1940s, the Château was taken over by the Nazis, who built the bunker now used as a wine cellar. I won’t give away too much of its history, but it is a hauntingly beautiful place that pays hommage to the sacrifices made by the French Resistance and the British Army in their fight to liberate Bordeaux from the Germans. It was one of the most memorable experiences I had in Bordeaux, and the cellars are home to some of France’s oldest wine bottles (there are a few in there from the mid 19th century!). If you can score a visit, it’s well worth the trip.

LEOGNAN, SAUTERNES, AND BARSAC

Almost no one in the wine world is talking about Sauternes or Barsac right now, and it’s a big mistake. Home to some of the most exceptional dessert wine producers in the world, winemakers here are noticing the cultural shift toward dry white wines and are leading the charge to change the way the region operates. A trip to Sauternes is a must in 2025 – you’ll be amazed at how much the region has evolved. Here are three producers I recommend between Sauternes and Pessac-Léognan.

Château Climens – 1er grand cru classé – Climens can trace its history back to the 16th century, but it was more recently acquired by Jérôme Moitry, a passionate propriétaire. All 30 hectares of Sémillon are now certified organic and biodynamic, and the result is some of the most aromatic, mineral-driven, dry white wines in the region. A few years ago, they stopped making what’s known in Bordeaux as the seconde vin – the “second wine” – a sweet wine that doesn’t hold the same prestige and ageworthy potential as the ranked premier vin – and replaced it with a suite of incredible age-worthy white wines. Their Lilium leads the charge and has quickly become one of my most favorite white wines from the region. Book their Climens Know-How tour for an incredible look at their biodynamic preparations (the room has the most incredible aromas you’ll ever smell).

Château Guiraud – 1er grand cru classé – Château Guiraud and Château Haut-Bages Libéral share something in common: they were among the first in their respective subregions to push for and become passionate about biodynamic winemaking. Guiraud was the first premier grand cru classé in Sauternes to receive organic certification in 2011 and have been pushing the envelope ever since, expanding into permaculture, native insect and animal ecosystem promotion, and more. I booked the bike tour and absolutely loved it. You connect your phone to a unique website and it guides you through the Guiraud vineyards, the town of Sauternes, and the surrounding fields. It was an incredible, rustic adventure.

Château Malartic-Lagravière – grand cru classé – I think Malartic-Lagravière is one of Bordeaux’s best-kept secrets. An exceptional family-run estate, the owners have expanded their holdings with a new world project in Argentina to complement their Bordeaux savoir-faire. It’s a stunning property that was recently renovated to run almost entirely by gravity (I wrote about my adoration for this tactic in my New Zealand Travel Guide too!). The vines and winery are somewhat hidden from the road but are an absolutely beautiful sight to behold once you emerge from the cool, modern cellars. But one of my favorite things about Château Malartic-Lagravière is its endless maritime motifs, all of which reference its storied history and connection to the French Navy. The winery room is a circle, with a separate chamber reminiscent of a ship’s cabin to regulate temperature right in the middle. I loved how unique it was and can’t recommend a visit here enough.

If you’re planning a trip to Bordeaux, be prepared to fall absolutely head over heels in love with it. This blog doesn’t even scratch the surface of all the adventures you could get up to if you have ample time to spend (I wanted to get over to the Bassin d’Arcachon to visit some of France’s most beautiful beaches but sadly didn’t have the time). A lively, friendly town full of some of the kindest people I’ve met in France, it would honestly be impossible to visit Bordeaux and have a bad time. The food is exceptional, the views are endless, and the wine region really surprised me – in the best way. Have an amazing trip!

Looking for more French wine region travel guides? Check out my Travel Guide to Beaujolais, plus posts on Bandol and the Champagne! Enjoy, santé!

Chablis might possibly be French wine country’s best-kept secret. Tucked away next to a sleepy town just south of Paris, most people don’t know that you can get to Chablis from the City of Lights in under two hours, making it a fantastic place for a quick day trip. Champagne gets all the glory when it comes to day trips from Paris, but Chablis is more than deserving, too. Its stunning vineyards, small towns, and warm hospitality make it the perfect subregion to visit – especially if you love their incredible white wines.

Here’s my itinerary for a perfect day in Chablis.

GETTING THERE

One of the reasons that Chablis is not as well-visited as Champagne is that it (very sadly, at the time of writing this) does not have a train station in the central town of Chablis itself. That being said, there are a few options. If you prefer to drive the full way from Paris (or Charles de Gaulle airport if you’re coming directly from the plane), that’s probably the least complicated, but personally I can’t deal with Paris traffic! If you’re anything like me, you can take public transit (the TER train leaves from Paris Bercy – I always recommend you book directly through the SNCF {the French national railway} website or app to ensure you are getting the best price and not being scammed) to Auxerre-Saint-Gervais, or to Troyes, where you can pick up a rental car and drive around easily. Uber exists in France but can be tough to find in the small villages, so I do recommend taking a car or doing a train + car combo.

MY ITINERARY

After arriving at the Auxerre-Saint-Gervais train station around 10:30 a.m., I was met by a representative of the BIVB in Chablis, who graciously offered to drive me around during the day. From there, we went directly to Domaine Brocard for a tour and tasting. A leading organic and biodynamic domaine in Chablis, Domaine Brocard is situated on top of one of Chablis’ most picturesque hills (the photos I’ve added to this post don’t even do it justice!). Domaine Brocard has over 60 hectares of vines and is a family-owned and operated domaine that produces exceptional Chablis across the board: from Petit Chablis to grand crus like Blanchot and beyond. (I reviewed their Petit Chablis in my May Wine Reviews, in case you’re curious) Their modern facilities are housed right next door to an absolutely iconic 16th century church that saved many French Catholics from Huguenot invasions in the 1600s. And while all of that should be more than enough to warrant a visit here, my favorite part of the domaine was underground. Brocard has an additional private tasting room with a real feature wall of untouched, natural Kimmgeridgian terroir. It is a must see and was one of my favorite parts of the day!

After a lovely tour, Julien Brocard was kind enough to drive me back down the hill and into the city of Chablis for lunch, where I enjoyed a light lunch al fresco at the Cité des Climats & Vins – Chablis. It’s a brand new museum and educational space that also houses a small restaurant, offices, and a couple of tasting rooms. The Cité has only been around for a couple of years but it is very well-done. The museum is small but mighty and driven by interactive exhibits, like touchscreen displays, immersive visual films, and my personal favorite: the Aroma Cellar (La Cave des Arômes). It’s an entire subterranean room dedicated to the aromas that you might detect when swirling and sniffing wines from northern Bourgogne, divided into two separate sections for white and red wines. If you’re in the wine world, this idea might not be so ground-breaking, but the Aroma Cellar at the Cité des Climats & Vins in Chablis has a marked difference from many other wine museums in that none of the tasting notes on display use chemical or artificial ingredients. They only use fresh herbs, flowers, and fruits, and change them out daily to maintain the highest quality of scent for every visitor. I spent over a half hour alone in this room breathing in the aromas from everything from Irancy red wines to Chablis premier cru. This is a great place to visit if you are working on improving your olfactory skills!

To close out the afternoon, we embarked on a languorous scenic photo walk of the town of Chablis. The village is quiet, calm, and full of French small-town beauty like antique shops, old churches, traditional bakeries, old stone bridges, and quiet parks by the river Serein. Buildings are covered in flowers, ivy, and wrought iron balustrades. Talk about eye candy! It’s a beautiful village and it’s the perfect end to the day. Take a quick drive down to the Lac de Berein, a man-made lake near the vines, to go in for a dip, fishing, or picnic with a snack on the lakeside in the shade.

You could probably spend a week in Chablis and not get bored, but if you can only spend a day, this itinerary will give you the perfect sampler of all the region can offer. Safe travels!

Disclaimer: my trip to Chablis was partially subsidized by Vins de Chablis and the BIVB. By reading this post, you are supporting the work of French Wine Tutor so that I can bring you even more French wine education and travel guidance. Merci beaucoup !

Looking for more French travel advice? Check out my Travel Guide to the Beaujolais Wine Region or 48 Hours in Champagne. Enjoy, santé !

2024-2025 is the Year of Paris. With the Olympics just behind us, tourism remains top of mind for the entire city – whether they like it or not. And while my favorite place in the world is undergoing some major renovations (the construction is everywhere), transformations (the famous Rue de Rivoli is now pedestrian only!), and more, I was pleased to discover that there are some perfectly situated hotel offerings on the right bank that are quiet, ideally located, and beautiful to visit. Read on for more.

Maison Mère – Cozy in the 9ème

I’ll be perfectly honest: this is the smallest room I’ve ever stayed in, but also one of the most picturesque. The rooms are very tight but perfectly self-contained. You have everything you need within just a few small square feet of space. I loved so many things about Maison Mère, like the fact that you can choose exactly which room you want (not common from my attempts at booking hotel rooms in other spaces!), and that the staff are very friendly – almost like staying with a friend. Its ideal location in the 9th makes it very easy to get around on the right bank. The 9th arrondissement is one of my favorites in Paris – it still has a local feel without being too touristy but it’s close enough to some key landmarks that you won’t spend all day on a bus or in the métro. Maison Mère has a full bar and restaurant and the rooms are all equipped with mini fridges, so if you want to put a bottle of wine in the fridge (I definitely did!), you’ll have ample space to do so. It’s also a place that feels very community-oriented: on Sundays, they host little apéros with staff and guests in both French and English, so you can meet new people and mingle if that’s something you’re into. And how cute is the in-room artwork!

Hôtel Adèle et Jules – Upscale in the 2ème

You’d think being closer to the center of Paris would mean a noisy room – but not so at the stunning Hôtel Adèle et Jules. Tucked away on a tiny, pedestrian-only street, this hotel is actually two properties: the “Adèle” – building 1 – and the “Jules” – building 2. In a direct comparison to Maison Mère, these rooms are expansive, with sizable closets and an easy-to-access elevator to reach the top floors. You won’t be able to choose your room exactly – save for the size and type – so you won’t know if the amenities you’ve chosen (such as a balcony or bathtub) will be in your room until you get there – but the accessibility and the quiet of this place really sell it. You can also order a customized breakfast or coffee to your room (not an option everywhere!), and the staff are extremely accommodating. The 2nd was a bit farther from the areas in Paris I frequent the most, but it is a wonderfully walkable area of Paris, with the Seine, key monuments, and great shopping all within just a five minute walk. I also loved the minimalist, chic look of the interiors – that green velvet!

Hôtel ChouChou – Trendy in the 9ème

I fell head over heels in love with the Hôtel ChouChou on my last visit. The staff is incredible, the hotel itself is beyond stunning and the rooms are generous. I upgraded to a junior suite (it was my last night in Paris after all!) and adored the view over the Parisian rooftops, the massive bathtub, and great room service. The hotel’s restaurant is super trendy and definitely having a moment among the bobo Parisien crowd (translation: yuppies). It’s a lively spot but the best news is that you won’t hear a thing from your room as the walls are thick. I love the minimalist, modern design of the hotel and can confirm that it’s the most comfortable bed I’ve slept in. They’re currently running an offer where you can book a stay with a “baths” experience add-on, which gives you access to a private hot tub and beverage service to relax (in the event you don’t have a tub in your room!). If I were to go back I’d definitely book it – the perfect way to relax after running around vineyards all week!

No matter where you end up staying in Paris, as long as you take the time to properly flâner (wander about) you simply can’t go wrong. This trio of hotels offer fabulous views of the city and great service, making them three of the top boutique hotels in Paris.

Looking for more Paris recommendations? Check out The Paris List or The Gambetta Guide. Enjoy your next trip to the beautiful city of light! Santé !

A few years ago, on advice (and quite frankly, urging) from a wide variety of French wine-loving American friends, my husband and I took a pilgrimage up to the Finger Lakes in upstate New York. It was the first time I ever tried New World wines that I actually enjoyed – and came home with about a case of bottles from half a dozen wineries – from LeSeurre to Wiemer and a few others in between. It was a life-changing moment for me because it showed that New World wineries were in fact coming into their own instead of mimicking all things Napa (which – sorry – but simply is not to my taste). It was a welcome change that sparked my curiosity about other cool-climate New World regions, and while I’ll always be a Francophile at heart, other places are starting to woo me, too. 

Enter New Zealand. On the eve of our wedding in 2024, the idea of a delayed, extended honeymoon took shape for my then-fiancé and I. We wanted to go somewhere that was almost entirely off–grid. Our ideal place would have dazzling landscapes, a massive time difference, and a unique environ that neither he nor I had ever seen. We wanted to go somewhere nobody we knew had ever visited either, and get totally lost on an adventure together. New Zealand made sense for a lot of reasons, and initially (though it sounds crazy to say as a wine blogger), wine was not a factor in our decision. We knew that New Zealand’s most famous region was Marlborough – known almost exclusively for Sauvignon Blanc. As a disciple of the Loire Valley’s style of Sauvignon Blanc winemaking, I couldn’t quite wrap my head around the idea of spending my honeymoon in a remote wine region where the odds felt stacked against my tastes. I somehow knew I would be disappointed. On the few occasions I’d tried New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc stateside, I just knew it was not for me. (That being said – I do get the sense that I’m in for a bit of a redemption arc here, so if New Zealand calls me back someday as I hope it does, Marlborough is absolutely on the list.) I didn’t want to spend the little time that we had to explore an entire country trekking to the top of the South Island for an experience I wasn’t sold on that wasn’t surrounded by a ton of other activities to help diversify our time there. Instead, we built an itinerary that was almost entirely devoid of wine – until we discovered that less than an hour’s drive from our “homebase” (Queenstown) on the second half of the trip was one of the New World’s most underrated wine regions: Central Otago. 

While we didn’t plan our whole trip around visits through Central Otago, it quickly became one of the highlights. We were blown away by the wine culture, ecological commitment, passion from the winemaking teams, overall sense of hospitality, and exceptional quality of the wines. I would even go so far as to say that the Finger Lakes and Central Otago are cousins in a way: both chilly, continental, and surrounded by glacial lakes, they share an interest in European style winemaking with a New World accent. The result is equal parts elegant and delicious. Read on for our wine country adventures – I hope they inspire you to plan your own visit to Aotearoa.

GETTING IN + AROUND 

Nowadays, United has direct flights between Newark and Auckland through Air New Zealand. It’s a long flight but if you can spring for Economy Plus, it’s worth it to fly direct (my husband and I slept extraordinarily well on the way over – we each got 6-7 hours of sleep and the food options on Air NZ were, quite frankly, exceptional). We landed in Auckland and took a ferry to Waiheke Island to relax and adjust to the time change for a few days and it was one of the best planning decisions we made to prep for our trip. If you are planning on staying in New Zealand for a little while, I highly recommend this! Waiheke Island was calm and cool when we went (October) but in the high season (November – February), it gets packed and hot. I loved traveling to New Zealand in the “shoulder month” of October: we were blessed with absolutely stunning and clear spring weather – without the crowds. In Waiheke, we stayed at the Delamore Lodge and it was our favorite hotel of the entire trip. Beautiful and intimate, it’s a worthy splurge.

From Auckland, you can easily get a connecting flight to Queenstown, which is where we stayed for the majority of our honeymoon. It’s the closest major city to Central Otago wineries and it’s also in the heart of the South Island so most people use it as a jumping off point (bungy joke intended, ha) to explore the rest of the South Island. The flight was only about two hours.

DRIVING AND PARKING IN THE SOUTH ISLAND

We rented a car for the majority of our time in New Zealand. It’s pretty much a necessity for exploring anything if you don’t book your trip with a touring company – and especially if you want the freedom to explore remote hikes, scenery, adventure activities, and yes, wineries. That being said – and I cannot overstate this enough – BE ALERT. If you are not used to driving on the other side of the road, take things slow. The majority of our time in New Zealand was a road trip around the South Island and unfortunately the road infrastructure is not half as robust as in the U.S. or Europe. We had some scary moments. Wine country itself was perfectly fine, but make sure to stay informed and watch the weather. Heavy storms and flooding are common in the shoulder seasons and cause what the kiwis call “slips” (mud or rock slides on the road), so it’s not uncommon to see washed out roads, debris, downed trees, alternate routes, etc. Be patient, follow the locals, and you’ll be fine. 

All the wineries we went to had ample parking options, as did the hotels in Queenstown, so parking was usually the easiest part of driving. Parking at wineries was free and our hotel had garage parking included with our rate package.  

WHERE TO STAY

We spent a week at The Rees Hotel in Queenstown and loved our stay. The Rees has a great restaurant with one of the best wine programs in the country (rated by Wine Spectator for several years running), so I definitely recommend popping by for a meal if you can. The lake views are spectacular and The Rees runs a free shuttle that can take you in and out of Queenstown every 10-20 minutes (depending on the day and season), so it’s a pretty convenient place to stay even though it isn’t right in the middle of downtown Queenstown. We also considered staying at The Eichardt’s Private Hotel and a few other spots, but were ultimately glad we landed where we did. The Rees also has a secure parking garage for guests which made parking overnight easy as well. 

EXPLORING QUEENSTOWN + WANAKA

I could probably write separate blog posts about how much I loved Queenstown and Wanaka but for the purposes of this unofficial travel guide, I’ll keep it to the highlights. Long story short: Queenstown is a great homebase but Wanaka takes the prize for being my favorite place in New Zealand. I literally still dream about its crisp air, breathtaking views, and peaceful vibes. If I could live there, I’d leave New York City tomorrow for it – it’s just that special to me. 

QUEENSTOWN 

Tourist Attractions 

• Onsen Hot Pools – one of my favorite activities of the trip! This spa is absolutely stunning and so well done. They even have a free shuttle from Queenstown so you can be totally relaxed and zen for your appointment and not have to worry about driving and parking.
• Milford Sound / Glacial Lakes Helicopter Tours – the unofficial 8th wonder of the world, Milford Sound has remained largely untouched since the time of the dinosaurs (I’m not exaggerating). It is one of the most precious spots of true wilderness the world has left.
• Forest Ziplining – so fun!
• Bungy Jumping – fun fact: bungy jumping was invented in Queenstown, and today the activity is central to tourism. We didn’t do it because I’m too chicken but we watched a few brave souls take the plunge from the Kawauru Bridge.

Restaurants + Wine Bars 

• Little Blackwood – easily the best bar in Queenstown! Amazing cocktail and mixology scene, live music throughout the week, and a fun ambiance. 
• My Thai Lounge – delicious Thai food!
• Vudu Cafe – my favorite pastries from the entire trip came from this place. Amazing scones with a nice little patio out back too!
• Fergburger – a New Zealand institution known for its epic and unique burgers. A must-visit!
• Marmolada Cafe – really good coffee next to where the shuttles for activities let off, so a convenient place to grab a latte.
• Tanoshi Cow Lane – this was our best meal in Queenstown. Authentic and delicious Japanese food with a great selection of Japanese craft beers and sakes. 

WANAKA

Tourist Attractions

• That Wanaka Tree – this tree is biblical and it’s absolutely worth the Instagram hype.
• Edgewater Hotel – a really cute lodge-like hotel that’s popular in the winter season with skiiers. Also has a restaurant where we ate our two meals in Wanaka.
• Mount Iron Loop Track (or literally any of the epic hikes in / around Wanaka) – the Mount Iron track was our first hike in New Zealand and we loved it. A great way to ease into incline hiking if you’re fairly new to it.

THE WINE REGION

Day 1: A Scenic Drive to Rippon Vineyard 

When we landed in Queenstown, we actually did something a little odd: we left immediately. We picked up our rental car and began the epic road trip that would more or less define our stay, driving from Queenstown to Wanaka to Aoraki / Mount Cook to Dunedin to Invercargill and back to Queenstown. Our first stop however, was my beloved Wanaka and the winery that started my love affair with Central Otago: Rippon Vineyard. 

If ever there was a winery that felt related to both the best in the Finger Lakes and the Old World combined, it would be Rippon. Situated at the top of a hill facing a glacial lake, it is a stunning vineyard with a beautiful tasting room and even a small events space. The wines are organic and biodynamic with lots of old vines (taste Emma’s Block and Tinker’s Field and you’ll see what I’m talking about). They focus primarily on Pinot Noir, Riesling, and a fun, little-known German grape variety called Osteiner that my husband and I really loved discovering. The tasting room team is warm, friendly, and knowledgeable, and they invite you to enjoy a glass of wine outside following your tasting if you so choose. We went home with a few bottles but they’re also available stateside from wine.com.  You’d be remiss if you visited this part of the world but didn’t make a visit to Rippon. The drive into Wanaka alone will leave you breathless.

After our tasting, we stayed overnight in Wanaka to visit That Wanaka Tree and take in the region’s magnificent beauty. I recommend staying at The Edgewater Hotel and hiking the Mount Iron trail while you’re there.

Day 2: Felton Road

When we returned to Queenstown after our epic road adventure, we dedicated a few more days of our honeymoon to winery tours. We began the first day with a drive out to Felton Road Winery in the heart of Central Otago. Felton Road is yet another example of New Zealand’s commitment to organic, biodynamic wines. Felton Road takes it a step further by also prioritizing vineyard biodiversity (they have goats, cows, and chickens on site) as well as elements of permaculture and biodiversity. It was here where we took one of our most comprehensive winery tours, guided from vineyard to vinification to storage and beyond. It was here that we learned why nearly all New Zealand wines do not use cork (and no, it’s not because they’re cheap, but because Europe kept selling them faulty cork!). It was here that a bone from the island’s ancient and infamous moa birds was found when excavating the vineyard in the 90s. But most importantly of all, it was where we learned that the Pinot Noir grown in Bannockburn is so powerful and complex that you might just mistake it for a Burgundy grand cru. (Don’t take my word for it – they’re imported to the U.S. by Skurnik, they were named Winery of the Year in 2024, and its nearly entire portfolio has high ratings from Decanter.)

Day 3: Kinross, Gibbston, Quartz Reef

There’s a place in New Zealand that inspired me with its approach to wines, hospitality, and international know-how: Kinross. Barely a decade old (founded in 2013), Kinross is a boutique collective that showcases winemakers from around Central Otago and the world all housed within one tasting room. It is designed with the wine-curious drinker in mind, completely and entirely created to make wine fun, educational, interesting, and accessible. The brand has its own eponymous winery that produces exceptional Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and rosé blends, but you can also book a tasting that features up to a dozen different boutique and small-batch wineries from across the region, including one that stole my heart: Wild Irishman (we didn’t leave Kinross before ordering a case!). This cooperative, modern approach to promoting the local wine industry and bringing more people into the world of wine is exactly the kind of creative thinking that we need to sustain the industry. But Kinross doesn’t stop there – it’s also a regional cultural hub. You can eat lunch or dinner at the bistro, stay overnight in one of their adorable vineyard cottages, or attend a concert in the summer. It should definitely be at the top of your visit list! 

Gibbston, just down the road, was our next stop. Widely regarded as Central Otago’s first commercial winery, it’s now home to a resort, spa, tasting room, grocery store, and bistro. We paired a tasting with a light bistro lunch and stopped by the little grocery store on our way out (where we bought way too many candles and local honey). I didn’t fall in love with the wines at Gibbston the way I did with those from other winery visits, but the ambiance was wonderfully calm and lush. We took our lunch outside in the sunshine where we basked in the warmth alongside native trees, flowers, birdsong, and vines. It was a lovely visit that helped us to slow down and remember we were on our one and only honeymoon. 

To finish out the day, we stopped by a hole-in-the-wall tasting room in a small town outside of Queenstown: Quartz Reef. Up until now we’d not yet tried any New Zealand sparkling wines and that’s in large part because there are not many houses that make them. At the time of writing this (2025), New Zealand is still coming into its own when it comes to artisan wine and food, so the expertise for making Champagne-level sparkling hasn’t quite come ashore. Luckily, however, a bottle of Quartz Reef’s méthode traditionnelle is all you need. Founded by an Austrian immigrant in 1996, Quartz Reef is now widely regarded as one of New Zealand’s best sparkling winemakers. Its biodynamic vineyards, hand-riddling system (!!), and a small yet passionate team makes it a rising star on the global stage for high-end bubbles. It’s the perfect sparkler to celebrate a honeymoon with while supporting local business! Shoutout to Elaine for being absolutely delightful and making our tour of the “riddling room” a highlight of our stay in New Zealand.

Day 4: Amisfield 

For our last dinner out in New Zealand, we headed to what should be New Zealand’s first Michelin star restaurant, Amisfield. (Michelin has never visited New Zealand, which is a crying shame, because if they did this place would easily have one if not three stars.) Just outside of the city of Queenstown, it is a working winery where you can reserve tastings, tours, or lunch at the bistro, but the main event is the tasting dinner at the formal restaurant. Helmed by one of the country’s most renowned chefs, it’s a three hour, multi-course experience featuring 100% local ingredients and cuisines inspired by the many peoples who have contributed to New Zealand’s rich cultural heritage: from Maori and Pelepolynesian to the British and beyond. It was by far and away the best food that we had on the trip and the wine pairings – featuring both new releases and vintage wines from the winery on site – were exceptional. This is an absolute must-do New Zealand experience and is worth the splurge. We learned more about the region and its history here than almost anywhere else on our trip. You certainly won’t regret dining here – and you won’t soon forget it, either. 

When my husband and I chose New Zealand for our honeymoon, we got a lot of funny looks. It’s not the trendiest place for an American to go on a honeymoon – much less a Francophile like me – but I hope that changes. Our adventure took us from the base of the island’s tallest mountain (Mount Cook) to the depths its deepest fjord (Milford Sound); across suspension bridges on five hour hikes and underneath remote waterfalls unchanged since the Jurassic Period. In the middle of it all though, was one of the most breathtaking wine regions I’ve ever seen. Simply put, Central Otago stole my heart and my tastebuds. I’ll never forget this once-in-a-lifetime journey and I hope someday to return to the Land of the Long White Cloud. Santé / Kia ora !

Looking for more travel guides? Check out a Francophile in the Finger Lakes or my Travel Guide to Beaujolais. Enjoy, santé !

If there’s one thing you should take away from this post, it’s that you should probably, at some point in your lifetime, spend much more than 48 hours in Champagne, but given that its capital city of Reims is only a 40 minute train from Paris, getting away for the weekend is extraordinarily easy. From great restaurants and museums to quite literally thousands of wine producers all within a few kilometers, you’d be remiss not to spend some time in Champagne on your next trip to France. Read on to discover my itinerary to plan your own visit. 

DAY 1: 

My friend Steph and I took the very early train from Paris to Reims to make the most of our time in the region. Upon arriving, we picked up our rental car (for some reason I always end up renting with SIXT in France – the experience is always really great and SIXT has an office right outside the Reims train station) and head off to our first visit in the region: Larmandier-Bernier. 

Larmandier-Bernier is home to many of my now favorite Champagnes. A pioneer in organics and biodynamics in the 1990s, they were among the first in the region to abide by these techniques and methodologies of winemaking. What started as a crazy idea has now become a trend, with producers around the region adopting tenets of organics or biodynamics or going into the certification process themselves. I love how expressive yet balanced and pure these champagnes were – with soft bubbles, affectionately supple mousse, and stunning equilibrium between tasting notes. The Rosé de Saignée is incredibly good (especially with summer just around the corner!) but the Longitude cuvée is ultimately what stole me. Because of their small production and commitment to sustainable methods, they are a bit more expensive in the U.S. but believe you me – they are worth every penny.

After our incredible tasting at Larmandier-Bernier, we took a scenic drive through the neighboring villages: Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Vertus, Cramant, and Chouilly. Don’t forget to ask Larmandier-Bernier for a map of this scenic drive before you leave! They gave one to us upon our departure and it was an unexpected perk that allowed us to languorously drive through the French countryside before lunch. 

We stopped for lunch in Oger at La Récré, an absolutely delightful bistro in the center of the village with exceptional food and of course, a great wine list. I highly recommend whatever seasonal soup they have on tap and the cabillaud – both were divine. 

Next we were off to the Champagne house that made me want to drink more champagne (I’m notoriously picky – more on that in another post): Champagne De Sousa. I’m not exaggerating when I say I simply did not like Champagne before I tried their Cuvée des Caudalies. It sounds a little crazy but it’s true – grower champagnes like De Sousa and Larmandier-Bernier are simply on another level. De Sousa is also organic, biodynamic, and family-owned and operated, with three siblings – Charlotte, Julie, and Valentin – running the show. We were lucky enough to be visiting during the bottling and disgorging process so we got to see it all up close! Plus: don’t miss a trip down to the cellars. Seemingly miles of intimate tunnels are divided by sibling and each has left their own quirky mark on the domaine, which we loved to see. The energy and vitality at this domaine was truly not something to be missed – don’t pass over De Sousa and make sure to take a couple bottles home with you as they aren’t widely exported to the U.S.! 

We drove back to Reims to check into our Airbnb, pick up some morning essentials like coffee and baguettes, and meet up with the rest of our small group (this weekend in Champagne was actually my bachelorette – more on that in another blog post). After a couple of hours relaxing at home over Champagne and snacks, we headed out to dinner at Giulia Restaurant in the heart of Reims (they sadly don’t have a functioning website at the moment but you can make your reservation here). It’s a delicious Italian bistro with great pasta – get the gnocchi! 

DAY 2:

If it’s your first time in the Champagne region, you should definitely pick at least one big Champagne house to visit. The history, savoir-faire, and cultural importance of these houses are an integral part of what makes Champagne well, Champagne. From the massive crayères to thousand bottle riddling machines, there is a lot to learn from the big houses and visiting one is a must. We decided to start our second day at Champagne Lanson, one of the region’s oldest houses and one that falls into the “big house” category. There’s a lot to love about Champagne Lanson: like the fact they are the only house with vines on site in the city of Reims (the Clos Lanson is one hectare of vines and it is small but mighty!), they are committed to consumer transparency, particularly as it relates to their labeling, and they are taking strides toward greater sustainability efforts. At their immaculate and modern tasting room and facilities, groups can book private or public tours in English, French, and other languages upon request. We greatly enjoyed our visit here and it was a lovely time to bond as a group together! 

Next it was off to lunch at Le P’tit Boursault. This is a classic French bistro with standard fare, and being one of the only sit down restaurants in the immediate vicinity of many Champagne houses in Boursault, they do great business. You can also get food to go if you are running between tasting rooms and don’t have the time to sit down! 

We finished out our second day with a visit to one of Champagne’s smallest producers: Champagne Le Gallais. Like De Sousa and Larmandier-Bernier, they practice organic farming on their four hectares of land. It’s also stunningly beautiful and has a dramatic and fascinating history. With sheep on site, vines located only a few hundred meters from a former Veuve Clicquot château, a stunning 19th century greenhouse in a romantic state of disrepair, and an epic view of the Marne Valley’s rolling hills, this visit is not one to be missed. Enjoy your tasting on the delightful patio or take it onto the tasting room’s balcony to admire the views. 

We headed back to Reims, dropped off the rental car, and headed out to dinner at what is now my favorite restaurant in Reims: Le Crypto. If you only book one restaurant recommendation from this list – book here – but only if your tastebuds can stand some adventure! Listed in the Michelin Guide, this restaurant looks like an unassuming French bistro from the outside but was the best food we ate the entire weekend. From a butternut squash soup with popcorn and balsamic vinegar to homemade deconstructed carambars and their (inside) jokes, we had an incredible time at this restaurant and highly recommend it. Not to mention the wine list is exceptional and the staff were lovely. Can’t say enough good things about this place! 

If you’re heading to Paris, stopping in neighboring Champagne for a weekend or even just a day trip should certainly be at the top of your list of things to do. While you could easily spend a month exploring the region and all its incredible wineries and history, 48 hours is a great place to start. I’ll certainly have to return and stay at least a few more days. Until then, bon voyage!

Looking for more quick French travel guides? Check out my 48 Hours in Lyon, 72 Hours in Strasbourg, or The Paris List.

I’m not an expert on Parisian restaurants by any means, but I do happen to have a lot of Parisian friends who are foodies (birds of a feather), which means I often end up dining and imbibing in some pretty lovely places. Check out the below list of places I enjoyed on my trip this past May.

Le Réveil du 10ème

Apparently Paris’ best wine bar since 1987, this place has a long, lovely wine list and a great menu of snacks to accompany it. My drink of choice? The Saint-Amour Beaujolais Cru (of course – is anyone surprised by this?). They don’t have a website – because of course they don’t. – but you’ll find it in the heart of the 10th between Rue du Château d’Eau and Rue Bourchardon.

Le Passager

There’s no doubt about it – brunch and bagels are trendy in Paris right now. If you’re on the lookout for a lovely little brunch spot that sports both American specialties and French fusion breakfast/lunch cuisine, this spot is cute, casual, and a favorite among locals. I loved the oeufs brouillés (I always forget how well the French do eggs of all kinds) and my friend Estee said the bagel was pretty great. Be careful to arrive early though – there was about a 20 minute wait (worth it!).

MARCEL

A casual little bistro in the heart of Montmartre, Marcel won me over when its staff made lighthearted jokes in French and offered us little white flowers at the end of our snack. (Flowers not guaranteed, but the jokes will probably maintain.) While I went to the Montmartre location, there’s also one on the left bank, so you might run into either and stop for a drink and a shareable plate. A proper bistro, not a wine bar, you’ll be required to get some food if you order wine off their small but eclectic list. It’s a perfect watering hole to stop in between long walks and market visits if you’re in the area. Oh – and the fries are delicious.

Les Rupins

From the outside, this café might seem unassuming, but believe you me the food here is fabulous and affordable. That duo is getting harder and harder to come by in Paris these days, since there are a lot of mediocre, overpriced bistros out there. The Dos de Cabillaud is served in a delicious curry-based sauce that’s as complex as it is aromatic. Perfect to pair with any range of the wines on the menu!

Floréal Belleville

If Williamsburg, Brooklyn turned into a chic Parisian café and restaurant, it would be Floréal. The distinctly trendy, local vibe to this place makes it feel like a slice of home. There are flowers and plants everywhere and on certain weekends they even have art exhibitions and community yoga classes (I repeat: hello, French Brooklyn). The wine list is small but impeccable, with organic cru Beaujolais, biodynamic Vinho Verde, and a selection of off-the-beaten-track rosés. The food is light, bright, and all shareable plates, with several vegan and vegetarian options. If you’re staying in the 19th or 20th as I like to do, this is one restaurant that is definitely worth stopping by.

The Dancing Goat

The first morning I woke up in my Airbnb, I realized that there was no coffeemaker (despite a description claiming there was). For someone who simply *must* have a cup – whether drip or espresso – I desperately began searching for a place in my neighborhood that would have something I could take away (à emporter) because I was working remotely and wouldn’t be able to languish at a café somewhere. Imagine my surprise when I found The Dancing Goat a few blocks away from where I was staying! This place is full of Parisian magic. It’s chic, minimalist, and even has café filtre – drip coffee – which until recently was rare in Paris. I happily walked away that first morning with two piping hot cups of coffee and returned every morning afterward. – sometimes to work remotely from there before lunch. If there’s one place I will definitely make sure to return to, it’s Dancing Goat!

Le barav

I have one thing to say: get there EARLY. The secret is out about how great this place is and people flock to this unique wine bar in République for an amazing evening. During the week, they open at 5 p.m., so to grab a table you’ll need to get there right when it opens. If you arrive late and can’t find a spot, head on over to their wine shop just next door! Grab a bottle and a corkscrew and head out to the Canal St. Martin for a picnic apéro.

BOBBY

The décor of this place is as trendy and cute as the food is delicious. Everything on the menu is made from local, fresh ingredients, so you won’t see anything that can’t be purchased from outside of 50 miles of Paris. We loved the melon and burrata salad (“Freschezza”), and the Pesto Trapani pasta was picture and tastebud perfect. Not a spot to be missed! It’s ideally located on the southwest fringe of the 18th arrondissement.

Daroco (Bourse)

Daroco has three locations in Paris and each one appears more sumptuous than the last. We met up with friends at the Bourse location to celebrate our engagement and we were not disappointed. Chic, delicious, and a visual feast of teal velvet, you will not be disappointed if you dine here. From refreshing salads to handmade pastas and tiramisus, everything on the menu is carefully curated and wonderfully delicious. P.S. – don’t skimp on the Champagne!

Le Sarment de Montmartre

If you’re looking for a fun, quirky wine bar with excellent food, Le Sarment de Montmartre is the spot to check out. Beloved by Parisians and visitors alike, the wine list here is an esoteric mix of up and coming Pays d’Oc stars, beloved under the radar Bourgogne, and classic Bordeaux, too. The food menu is a classic French bistrot selection that’s done simply and done very well. For modern ambiance and great wine in the heart of Montmartre, this is the place to go.

Café Pimpin

With three locations across Paris, Café Pimpin (not pronounced like you think!) not only has great coffee but a solid food menu, too, with so much more than your typical pastry list. You can get eggs, avocado toast, or a selection of the daily tartines. The perfect spot to have in your back pocket if that trendy lunch/breakfast spot you were eyeing has no open reservations!

REDD Montorgeuil

Tucked away on an otherwise very busy street, REDD is an unassuming, quiet wine bar with friendly staff and a rotating list of fabulous French wines. It’s a great place to go on a date or with a small group of friends and its location right next to the famous Rue Montorgeuil makes it the perfect spot to stop by before or after dinner for a glass.

BREIZH CAFE

Crêpes, crêpes, crêpes! If it’s your first time in France – or even if you are a Francophile like me – eating some authentic French crêpes is definitely going to be on your hit list. BREIZH is pretty much the gold standard, specializing in both the Normandy tradition of buckwheat savory crêpes as well as the classic crêpes sucrées. When I first studied abroad here they only had one location and it was always sold out, but I’m happy to report that there are now multiple locations throughout Paris so you can grab a reservation pretty much anywhere and enjoy!

HITE

Korean food is having quite the moment in Paris right now – you can’t take a 15 minute walk without seeing at least one outpost! I love Korean food so I was excited to try out an outpost with Parisian flair. HITE is a great little spot with incredible food – I highly recommend the classic vegetarian bibimbop. It was super flavorful and a great place to hit up if you are on a budget!

KB Coffee Roasters

Coffee was once overlooked in Paris, but the city is currently going through a café renaissance (you can read more about it in Lindsey Tramuta’s book The New Paris!) I was delighted to meet a friend of mine for a coffee at KB Coffee Roasters’ 9th arrondissement outpost. They have a lovely terrace, fabulous coffee and tea, and if you snag a spot on the terrace you even get a little glimpse of the Sacré-Cœur. An ideal spot to take a beat on a busy day!

A LOT OF WINE

If you love organic, biodynamic, or natural wines like I do – look no further, this place has a great bottle for you! Ideally located in the 4ème arrondissement, not too far from the picturesque Hôtel de Ville, this is a great spot to grab a glass, a snack, or even a bottle to go. For an even better experience, ask the server which wine he’s loving right now and chances are you’ll land on a great one. Santé !

KUBRI

This place was a standout from my most recent trip to the city of lights and I’m recommending it to anyone who will listen. It is easily one of the best restaurants in Paris at the moment (as evidenced by the fact it can be challenging to get a table!) – but is still pretty reasonably priced. Fantastic Lebanese fare with a creative and modern touch plus a Franco-Lebanese wine list that is to die for. We ordered almost everything off the menu and loved every single bite.

Ora Farmhouse

Easily one of Paris’ most romantic restaurants (no small feat!), this beautiful establishment is located in the heart of the city’s prettiest park: Buttes Chaumont. Come for the art déco vibes, stay for the delicious spritz menu. My favorite part about this place (besides the stunning terrace)? The veggie-forward focus of the menu. It’s becoming all the rage in Paris and I’m excited to see more and more restaurants adopt this approach. Yum!

BONUS: Parisian Food Tour with Paris by Mouth

If you’re going to Paris for the first time or even the fifth time and want to learn (and taste!) Paris food culture from the locals, you’ve got to book a tour with Paris by Mouth. On the tour, an expert Parisian guide (usually an expat, so in English!) will take you to Paris’ best boulangeries, fromageries, and wine shops. It’s a great way to get to know the food scene without exclusively going to restaurants. Bon appétit !

Looking for more restaurant recommendations? Head on over to my last post about restaurants and wine bars I visited when last there!

I’ve been lucky enough to explore a wealth of beautiful vineyards throughout France, but some of my favorites are very small properties that aren’t open to the general public for visits – not yet at least. Here are three of my absolute favorites that are and look forward to welcoming you any time. Definitely worthy of a French wine lover’s bucket list!

1) Domaine de la Bégude, Bandol (Provence)

Meaning “the place where strangers are welcomed” in old Provençal, Bégude is a place that lives up to its name. It is an oasis of peace. A visit here will make you feel like you’ve stepped into a place outside of time. At once both ancient (with property origins dating back to the 14th century) and modern (with state-of-the-art winemaking facilities), this domaine respects its past while evolving toward the future. To arrange a visit at Domaine de la Bégude, send an email over to their staff at: events@domainedelabegude.fr. A full picnic with local meats, cheeses, spreads, plus a bottle of wine is available for 49€ a person (and well worth not only the delicious food but also the view at the top of Bandol). Located just up the hill of Le Castellet, it’s about a 25 minute drive from Toulon. 

2) Château du Moulin-à-Vent, Beaujolais (Southern Burgundy)

This domaine has a fascinating history going all the way back to the 18th century, but is now under new ownership with Edouard Parinet. Edouard has grand plans for the domaine’s future and has an eye toward modernity: the wines are all farmed organically and the domaine is focused on restoring biodiversity to its 37 hectares. Like many of the domaines we visited, Château du Moulin-à-Vent is also committed to vinifying its wine by parcel. This Burgundian approach lends a finesse and sublime elegance to the wines at CMAV. My favorite is the 2021 Vérillats, which has soft, silky tannins yet enough backbone to stand up to a wide variety of dishes. Probably one of the most welcoming and oenotourism-focused of all the domaines we visited, I highly recommend a stop here. For more information, check out their tastings on their website.

3) Domaine Weinbach, Alsace

From the moment you drive up to Weinbach, it’s clear that it is a very special place. The domaine and family home where the tastings take place is oozing with elegance and refinement. The vineyards on the property are paved with stunning stone walkways and the entire estate is surrounding by one of Alsace’s most revered Grand Cru hills: the Schlossberg.

While there’s no doubting that the environs of Weinbach are impressive, its mark on history is felt in every step you take too. Woman owned and operated since the 1970s and one of the first places in Alsace to implement biodynamics, this is a place that changed winemaking forever. Experimentation while keeping restraint, reform while staying true to Alsace’s cultural traditions – I found all this and more in every single cuvée I tasted with Domaine Weinbach. Certainly some of the region’s most exceptional wines are made here – by some of the region’s most exceptional people, too. Book your visit on their website.

Looking for my wine region recommendations? Check out my Travel Guide to the Beaujolais Wine Region or Travel Guide to the Alsace Wine Region. Happy exploring!

For Germans and Brits, Mallorca’s a top travel destination and has been since the 1950s. But it’s only been fairly recently that North Americans have caught onto the trend – and business is booming. Over 7.3 million people visited Mallorca in the first half of 2023. The island is super English and German-friendly, plus it’s pretty easy to get around. Between that and access to some incredible produce, wine, and seafood, it’s also home to several Michelin-starred restaurants and chefs so you definitely won’t go hungry. Check out my tips to visiting beautiful Mallorca below – and have an amazing time!

GETTING IN + AROUND 

This past May, United Airlines announced a nonstop route between Newark and Palma, Mallorca that runs from late spring until the end of September each year. Booking a seat is slightly more expensive than a transfer option and you’ll be a little more limited on the days you can fly but it is definitely worth it! My fiancé and I booked this flight for our route back and highly recommend it – stress free!

Once you land in Palma, you can either take a taxi into the central area of the city (where most of the hotels, nightlife, and restaurants are), or you can rent a car to get around the island. We did both. We spent a few days just using taxis to get around and rented a car to drive around the island for a few other days. I highly recommend the combination. It served us well and gave us the flexibility we wanted without having to drive the entire trip. The biggest rental car hub is in the Palma Airport and basically serves all the major rental car brands.

Another major transportation perk in Palma and Soller is the 20th century tram and train systems. They connect Palma to Soller and Port de Soller and make for a beautiful ride through the countryside. I highly recommend using it to get between Soller and Port de Soller because the roads in Soller are impossible to navigate and jam-packed with tourists. It costs 7€ each way which feels like a steal because of all the beautiful landscapes you’ll get to see as you pass through! Plus, driving was a nightmare so we effectively abandoned our rental car while we were there in favor of the tram. Much better use of funds and time!

TOWNS TO VISIT 

Palma is the capital of Mallorca and is definitely worth a few days of sightseeing. There are several fabulous museums, a plethora of top-notch restaurants and bars, and it’s the closest major city to Mallorcan wine country, located in the center of the island near Binissalem.

Soller is a stunning mountainside town in the northwest of the island, sandwiched between two tourist hotspots, Valldemossa and Deià. It’s also a hop, skip, and a jump from Port de Soller, its seaside equivalent, which has a beautiful beach and stunning restaurants. We spent several days in Soller and absolutely loved walking around its beautiful old town. There are some fabulous restaurants within the town and the square is just lovely to walk through. Tons of small artisan and antique shops are around as well if you know where to look.

Sollença is a quiet beachside town toward the north of the island, recommended if you want some quiet time away from the tourist jam. We didn’t go here but friends of ours did and absolutely loved how calm and remote it was. There are also some great hiking paths around here – one of which leads up into the mountains and down to a small, pebble-filled beach (where goats sometimes appear!).

WHERE TO STAY 

Mallorca has no shortage of fabulous hotels, thanks to the importance of tourism on the island. We only stayed overnight in Palma and Soller but loved the places we stayed and our friends enjoyed their hotels, too. Here are a few spots we loved or were recommended to us.

PALMA SUITES is an affordable 4-star hotel right in the middle of Palma (nightly rates start around $170, which is pretty good for the area!). Its rooms are set up like loft apartments so you’ll have all the amenities you need during your stay (including a washer and dryer – which definitely comes in handy!). The hotel has a small but pretty rooftop for lounging and a cute bar in the lobby perfect for a post-dinner cocktail.

HM PALMA BLANC is a fabulous hotel in the center of Palma and was the hotel of choice for most of our friends staying in Mallorca. They have a great spa and sauna and beautiful rooms overlooking downtown Palma.

THE SALVIA is an adults-only hotel in Soller and it was a major highlight of our trip. This 19th century mansion was converted into a hotel a few decades ago and is now run by a lovely young Polish couple. It’s calm, quiet, and private, with a truly spectacular pool and lounge area where we basically spent every afternoon. The mountain views from the rooms are insane! The hotel isn’t really accessible by car but it’s about a six minute walk from the downtown of Soller, perfect for shopping and restaurant access.

TOURIST ATTRACTIONS

Even though it’s a small island, Mallorca is home to a wide variety of things to do – many of which don’t include the beach. While Palma certainly has the largest concentration of museums and other attractions, you’ll find great hikes, shopping, and more in the smaller towns, too. Check out a few of the things we loved below!

PALMA

• Take a catamaran tour of the bay of Palma – this was our favorite experience in Palma! We booked this via Airbnb and expected to share it with a few other couples but nobody else booked so we had a private tour. Leonardo was wonderful and provides cava and snacks during the boat ride. It was so lovely and peaceful and the catamaran he uses is 100% solar-powered, which means you don’t have to deal with the pollution smell or noise from a motorboat. Really recommend booking this tour!
• Catedral Basilica de Santa Maria – an absolutely stunning example of gothic architecture right in the middle of Palma. You can’t miss it!
• Banys Arabs – the “Arab Baths” of Palma date back to the 10th century. They’re no longer active public bathing houses but it’s a beautiful garden that makes for a lovely stroll.
• Es Baluard Museu d’Art (Museum of Modern Art) – a beautiful, modern art museum with great views from the surrounding terrace.

SOLLER + PORT DE SOLLER

• Walk the old town – this is one of the best parts of going to Soller. Lovely old buildings, charming cobblestone streets, and great little artisan shops to stop into.
• Port de Soller beach – a lovely public beach with rentable umbrellas/beach chairs. (Be prepared to see some women go topless – this is commonplace in Mallorca.)
• Take the tram! – This early 20th century tram has been well maintained and runs from Palma – Soller – Port de Soller multiple times a day. It costs 7€ each way and is totally worth it!

RESTAURANTS + WINE BARS 

Mallorca has no shortage of fabulous restaurants, many of which feature local organic produce, freshly caught seafood, and fusion cuisine. That being said, if you’re going to Mallorca in the high season, you’ll definitely want to book your reservations in advance. The American art of turning tables quickly to accommodate many guests in the span of a few hours isn’t really something that Mallorcans do, and since most spaces are small, they have limited space available for a lunch or dinner service. Definitely book in advance!

PALMA

• LA ROSA VERMUTERIA – a classic, beloved spot with great tapas and a ton of Vermouth options (Vermouth is huge in Mallorca!)
• RIKITO – incredible Italian food with a great wine list!
• MESTIS – an adorable Mexican-Spanish fusion spot with only locally-sourced ingredients. Try the soft-shell crab tacos, they were delicious!
• L’INFORMAL TACOS – a tiny hole-in-the-wall with a unique and thorough tacos menus. The desserts are a hit too.
• AGABAR – say tequila! As much as Mallorca loves Vermouth, tequila is a close second and this bar specializes in it. Fabulous spot to get drinks before dinner at Rikito or Mestis!
• CAV – THE natural wine bar and shop to visit in Palma. A tiny, curated selection of some great natural, organic, and biodynamic wines from select regions around Europe. You can pick out your bottle and drink it inside the shop or take it to go.
• CAFE POUPETTE – this is a great little lunch spot in the middle of one of Palma’s beautiful parks. Great view of the park and the museum. Their coffee is fantastic.
• TAST CLUB – looking for a fancy night out? Tast Club will definitely deliver. Great fusion Mallorcan and New World cuisine.
• FIKA FARINA – the cutest bakery in town! It’s owned by a lovely Swedish couple and has all kinds of pastries – from French to Spanish and Mallorcan specialties. Delicious spot for breakfast!
• FLORA – a modern, minimalist wine & cocktail bar with a great selection of local wines and stunning drinks.
• QUINA CREU – great little spot for authentic tapas and local cuisine! It’s a decently sized restaurant that is just around the corner from Palma Suites.

SOLLER

• CA’N PINXTO – if you only book one of the restaurants I recommend in Soller, book this one! INCREDIBLE food that blends Basque, Catalan, and traditional Spanish style. It rotates seasonally and everything is local and tastes super fresh.
• CA’N BOQUETA – a Michelin-starred restaurant with a rotating prix-fixe menu and a lovely selection of Mallorcan wines. A little on the pricier side, but a great spot for lunch.
• CA’N KARLITO – another adorable tapas spot with great food and fantastic ambiance.
• CAFE SOLLER – located right in the middle of the town square, this is a great place for people watching! Order a coffee or glass of wine and a couple of snacks and watch other tourists wander about and the lovely tram go back and forth to Palma and Port de Soller.

PORT DE SOLLER

• SES OLIVERES – with a beautiful view of the striking Soller beaches and landscapes, Ses Oliveres is a must-visit dinner spot in Port de Soller. I’d wager to say it is probably one of the best seafood restaurants on the entire island. All the fish is fresh and locally caught, simply and expertly prepared, and best enjoyed right as the sun is setting from the Ses Oliveres patio. This was one of our favorite meals!
• PATIKI – if you are looking for fresh, plant-forward dishes and a break from meats, seafood, and paella, Patiki is for you! This place is quite literally right on the beach and has an environmentally-friendly approach to everything they offer. Another must-visit if you are spending the day at Port de Soller.

Not mentioned – gelato! There are seemingly a thousand gelato and ice cream shops all over the place and it makes for a delicious sweet, cold treat when the heat of the day hits.

Overall, Mallorca makes for a beautiful and relaxing vacation – you could easily spend more than a week there! Bon voyage !

Looking for more travel tips? Check out my Travel Guide to the Beaujolais Wine Region, 48 Hours in Lyon, or The Paris List.

Beaujolais is France’s best kept tourism secret. Known locally as “la petite Toscane” – “little Tuscany” – it is an absolutely magnificent region with incredible people, wine, food, and views for days. And it’s rebounding. After decades of being overshadowed by Burgundy, Beaujolais has finally revived its reputation for making stunning, age-worthy reds as well as easy-drinking wines for everyday. If you’re choosing to go to Beaujolais, you won’t be disappointed.

GETTING IN + AROUND

Before venturing out to wine country, I spent the weekend in Lyon, a lovely city located just south of the region. Like many other destinations within France, Lyon is only about two hours away from Paris on a direct TGV train. You can book your tickets in advance on the French government’s official train website, the SNCF. I always recommend going through the SNCF website to purchase tickets because you know you’re getting the best rate, most up-to-date time schedule, and you won’t be spammed with sketchy emails afterward. There’s even an English version of the site to make things easy-peasy for Anglophones.

After spending a weekend in Lyon (read more about that adventure here!), I took a train to Villefranche-sur-Saône and picked up my rental car. While it’s easy to get around by train in between the small towns, driving is a necessity to get to and from vineyards and tasting rooms. At the time of writing this, Beaujolais does not have a robust oenotourism structure so there aren’t a lot of drivers-for-hire in the region, but once you get used to the roads there’s no need to worry.

DRIVING + PARKING IN BEAUJOLAIS

Since I’m not a super confident driver (or at least, wasn’t when I first arrived!), I was pretty worried about driving in Beaujolais – but I didn’t need to be! This is a small, country region so the traffic in the villages and outside of major highways is not congested. Most of the time, we were the only people on the roads – even in the early summer when tourist season was just starting to peak. That being said, make sure you take time to adjust to the hills – especially in Fleurie and the south near the Pierres Dorées and Oingt area. It can get a little crazy with hairpin turns and switchbacks!

Our Airbnb had ample parking space and most of the restaurants we went to did as well. The wineries are often in smaller towns and off tiny side streets, so I’d recommend giving yourself additional time to get in and out of wineries before and after appointments. I generally found that the people in Beaujolais are very easy-going and friendly, so unless you’re literally parked in a main road or blocking something, parking is pretty straightforward. Just make sure you rent a sedan or a smaller vehicle!

WHERE TO STAY

While the Beaujolais region in general is no stranger to a wide variety of gîtes (French bed & breakfasts), I have to admit the place where we stayed truly took the cake. It’s located in the very north of Beaujolais on the border of the Mâconnais in a small hamlet called Leynes. Known as Le Vieux Château within the town, it’s actually a 13th century monastery that was converted into a massive Airbnb by François Chabot, the proprietor. The views here are absolutely stunning! If you’re lucky, you might get to spend time with François, his donkeys, and his granddaughters. They’re always off on impromptu adventures through the French countryside. (You think I’m kidding but I truly lived this myself!) I cannot say enough about my experience here. It was like something out of a daydream. You can book it directly on Airbnb or you can save 20% by booking via email with François: fchabot71@gmail.com (and tell him French Wine Tutor sent you!).

TOURIST ATTRACTIONS

The natural beauty in Beaujolais – and all the landmarks that go along with it – is something you simply can’t miss. I recommend going up to La Madone at the top of Fleurie, gazing at or climbing up (if you’re an ambitious hiker!) Le Mont Brouilly, or even just taking long walks around the area where you’re staying.

Oingt-en-Beaujolais is a MUST visit while in the region. Voted one of the most beautiful villages in France, Oingt is a medieval town constructed with the famous pierres dorées of Beaujolais. It has absolutely breathtaking views overlooking southern Beaujolais vineyards and down to the Rhône and Lyon. It is home to several wonderful restaurants and has a vibrant artisan community of jewelers and craftsmen of all kinds. You can read more about it and plan your trip via their website.

RESTAURANTS + WINE BARS

If you stay at François’ beautiful Vieux Château, I highly recommend cooking or grilling on site and enjoying at least some of your meals on his beautiful patio al fresco. My fellow traveler Steph and I did this almost every evening and it was divine. It’s not only a great way to save money but this way you and whomever you’re traveling with can both enjoy a few glasses of wine and not have to worry about who’s driving home safely. Instead, our strategy was to eat lunch out in between tasting visits, with dinner at home. Check out a list of our favorite spots below!

Le Coq à Juliénas – everyone loves this local watering hole and several people recommended it to us when we first arrived, so we stopped by for lunch on our first full day in the region. This place is an institution and the food is fabulous. It is a little on the pricier side, but definitely worth it. See if you can get a table outside – the patio is stunning!

La Terrasse du Beaujolais – talk about a view! This place is perched right on top of a beautiful hill and overlooks several of the crus of Beaujolais. You can even see Mont Blanc and the Alps on a clear day! Service is superb and the food is great – especially when paired with a local Beaujolais blanc or rosé. Go here on a sunny day to get the most out of the panorama that surrounds you.

Le Morgon – this place is a local favorite, especially for those with kids. It’s a more casual, relaxed ambiance and their specialty is pizza. As the name might suggest, the restaurant is right in the middle of the Morgon village so it’s a perfect place to go to in between tastings in that area. Fun spot to go for a happy hour too!

La Table du Donjon – you’re probably sick of me mentioning places with incredible views but this one is seriously one you can’t miss. Nestled right on a hilltop in the heart of Oingt, one of France’s most beautiful villages, La Table du Donjon has some of the best, classic French food we ate during our time in Beaujolais. The menu is curated and top-notch – you won’t have to ask me twice to order sole meunière. The terrace of the restaurant overlooks the whole southern half of the region and there’s even a little goat farm just beneath it that makes for some mealtime entertainment.

Les Maritonnes – Restaurant Rouge & Blanc – nestled within a 3-star hotel in Romanèche-Thorins, the Rouge & Blanc restaurant is situated right in the middle of a hectare and a half of vines, so you really do feel like you’re in the heart of Beaujolais. It features a modern French menu with several vegetarian and pescatarian options, plus a fabulous wine list.

THE WINE REGION

Beaujolais is in the middle of a renaissance. After decades of fighting an uphill battle to prove their red Gamay wines are high quality and age-worthy, it feels like they’ve finally arrived. The energy is palpable. We were truly stunned by the diversity of wines we tasted, which represented a diversity of farming styles (from lutte raisonnée to biodynamic and natural), and wine expressions (from simple Beaujolais to 15-year-old Moulin-à-Vent). There’s truly a style for every wine drinker. You wouldn’t think that one grape or even one region could do all that – but this is the secret of Beaujolais. And producers can’t wait for you to try it.

Day 1:

We started our first day in Beaujolais with a visit to Domaine Clos du Fief, owned and operated by father-son team, Sylvain & Michel Tête. The winemaking philosophy focuses on lutte raisonnée in the vineyard, which means the domaine avoids the use of chemicals as much as possible and only uses them when absolutely necessary. One of the things I really enjoyed about Domaine Clos du Fief is the fact that they’ve set up a mini-cooperative and sales association with other small winemakers in Beaujolais who share their same vineyard philosophy and approach to winemaking. We were lucky enough to taste through some of those producers as well and thoroughly enjoyed a few in particular from Steeve Charvet and Domaine Aufranc. Domaine Clos du Fief has a lovely tasting room and is more than happy to welcome visitors from everywhere. Make sure you try the Chénas 2022 and Fleurie 2022! You can book directly through the contact form on their website.

After lunch at Le Coq in Juliénas, we headed down to Clos de la Roilette in the heart of Fleurie. The domaine is subtly hidden away at the end of a long road that effectively leads you directly into the vineyards. It’s incredibly calm and rustic, located directly opposite of its namesake, the Clos de la Roilette in Fleurie, overlooking the eastern half of the appellation. Alain Coudert, proprietor and winemaker, greeted us and took us directly to the cellars for our tasting. These wines show a more rustic, traditional side of Beaujolais. They’re robust; meant for food, and have an edge. Terroir-driven and very sensitive to vintage, many also show a unique finesse that I didn’t find elsewhere in Beaujolais. Our favorite was the 2021 Fleurie – we both went home with a few bottles.

For our last visit of the day, we stopped by Anne-Sophie Dubois‘ home a few miles away, this time in the middle of the stunning Fleurie hills. Anne-Sophie’s energy and passion for winemaking and the terroir she tends is simply magnetic. We climbed up through her organic and biodynamic vineyards, accompanied by her trusty cat and dog, just as the sun started setting. I can honestly say I loved every single one of her wines. Every single one is a pure expression of the heart of Beaujolais – modern, authentic, not overly “natty”, fruit-forward – yet refined. I highly recommend the 2021 l’Alchimiste Fleurie and the 2020 Les Cocottes Fleurie in particular – but to be perfectly honest, it would be hard to be disappointed by any wine Anne-Sophie has made.

Day 2:

We had some time before our planned visits on our second morning, so at François’ recommendation, we booked another visit with a winery located within the villages of Leynes where we were staying: Domaine Chardigny. The Chardigny family has had their hand in or ownership of vines since the 18th century but never quite had a domaine of their own, until recently when the three brothers decided to create their label in 2013. Deeply committed to organic and biodynamic processes, they now have 20 hectares that span both the Mâcon growing regions and northern Beaujolais, with cuvées representing Beaujolais-Villages, Saint-Amour, Saint-Véran, and Bourgogne Blanc. They’ve just started exporting to the U.S. with The Source Imports! I definitely recommend picking up a few bottles. The Beaujolais-Leynes and the Saint-Amour À La Folie were among my favorite cuvées from our trip. This domaine is one to watch!

After lunch at the stunning Terrasse du Beaujolais, we headed over to Morgon for a visit with Mee Godard. These wines are a cult classic among many in the NYC wine and food scene – and for good reason. Mee’s six hectares of Gamay are focused on some of the most unique plots in Morgon, but the singularity of her wines are tied to her philosophy and life story. Like many of some of the most revered crus in the region, she is a newcomer and many would consider her an outsider, similar to Anne-Sophie Dubois. The beauty of Beaujolais is that it is still very possible to arrive in the region with no family precedent, purchase a few plots, and pursue great winemaking. This is certainly true for Mee, who has produced incredible wines year after year, true to her own style and ethic of winemaking. Her Morgon Les Corcelettes 2021 is for me the best expression of a modern Morgon. Organic, refined, soft, spicy but driven by terroir – this is one to buy, keep, and drink. We went home with a few bottles and I’ll definitely be buying it again.

Our last visit of the day was with one of the producers that first got me into Beaujolais: the acclaimed Château Thivin. Having first been truly discovered by superstar importer Kermit Lynch in the 70s after over 150 years of uninterrupted family ownership and tradition, these wines are renowned in the U.S. – and show no signs of slowing down. These Beaujolais are simply classic. Their grounds are stunning and home to one of the biggest and oldest cellars in the region. Practicing lutte raisonnée like many of their counterparts in Beaujolais, Château Thivin is also incorporating other elements of agroecology and biodiversity on their lands. Their exceptional Côte de Brouilly is certainly one to try either stateside or at their tasting room – Château Thivin receives visitors throughout the year. Book via their website here.

Day 3:

A veritable museum of and for Beaujolais, Maison Jean Loron was our first stop on our third day in the region. The seat of the region’s trade association, Interbeaujolais, is located here, so it should come as no surprise that the offices and tasting rooms are home to a massive set of topographical maps and an enormous underground cellar that houses a hundred vintages from every single Beaujolais appellation (plus some in Mâcon). In the U.S., the estates from this producer (which has served as one of the region’s backbones for trade and vine ownership since the 18th century) are better known as individual domaines – one for nearly every cru – like Domaine des Billards, Château de Bellevue, and Château de la Pierre. I recommend a visit here to anyone and especially the vintage nerds like me! Book your visit via their website here.

I’ve noticed and talked a lot about the electric energy in Beaujolais, and our next visit to Château de Pougelon with Famille Descombe did nothing but reinforce this. After nearly 100 years of family winemaking, this group’s ambition to modernize and re-invest in Beaujolais is nothing short of inspiring. The family recently acquired Château de Pougelon, a 300-year-old bourgeois home, and they are in the middle of transforming it into a modern cuverie, offices, and more. All this is done with respect to tradition and local artisans – the beams in ceiling of the winemaking facility are crafted in the same way as some of Europe’s greatest cathedrals, using local wood and carpenters to complete the work. The concept of patrimoine – loosely translated as heritage or shared communal culture – is in everything they do, yet always executed with an upscale modern twist. Famille Descombe is also unrelenting when it comes to their values in the vineyard: only organic, biodiverse plots will do, and they are converting all their plots to farming this way to protect their workers, consumers, and the environment. Their vision and passion is immediately evident in the wines. You can inquire about a visit via their contact form – and I highly recommend adding them to your tasting list!

Following a delicious, convivial lunch at Le Morgon, we headed up to Château du Moulin-à-Vent. This domaine has a fascinating history going all the way back to the 18th century, but is now under new ownership with Edouard Parinet. Edouard has grand plans for the domaine’s future and has an eye toward modernity: the wines are all farmed organically and the domaine is focused on restoring biodiversity to its 37 hectares. Like many of the domaines we visited, Château du Moulin-à-Vent is also committed to vinifying its wine by parcel. This Burgundian approach lends a finesse and sublime elegance to the wines at CMAV. My favorite is the 2021 Vérillats, which has soft, silky tannins yet enough backbone to stand up to a wide variety of dishes. Probably one of the most welcoming and oenotourism-focused of all the domaines we visited, I highly recommend a stop here. For more information, check out their tastings on their website.

Day 4:

For the majority of my trip to Beaujolais, I tried to avoid visits to the infamous “Gang of Four” who spurred a passionate return to natural and organic winemaking after the Beaujolais-Nouveau corporate madness of the 80s. I’m so glad that they were the ones leading the charge to restore the region’s quality winemaking, but the hype in the U.S. for the majority of these wines has, for me, gone a little over the top. Domaine Guy Breton, however, has always felt to me the most humble, and on occasions where I’ve been lucky enough to taste his wines, I’ve consistently enjoyed their conviviality and joie de vivre. Our visit to the domaine was, happily, nothing short of both those things. After a wonderful tasting full of laughs with his team (my favorite was actually the Beaujolais-Villages “Mary Lou”!), we headed over to the cellars for a quick tour and met Guy – or shall I say “P’tit Max” – himself. A tour of these cellars felt like venturing into the heart of Beaujolais itself. They’re dotted with old posters of harvests and festivals from the 70s, 80s, and 90s. A collection of unique glassware and old memorable bottles lines the shelves as you walk in. It seems that the passion for Beaujolais here has hardly dimmed, even after 30+ years of revolution. It was beautiful to see.

After our tasting with Guy Breton, we headed south for the first time on our trip to the famous Pierres Dorées of Southern Beaujolais. If there’s one key learning I have to share during a Beaujolais jaunt it’s this one: do not sleep on the south, and spend at least one full day there. We were only there for a few hours and I really regretted it: the beauty of the south is absolutely unreal. I definitely need to revisit it. We wandered around the stunning village of Oingt and had a fabulous lunch at La Table du Donjon before venturing off to our second tasting of the day at Domaines Chermette.

Domaines Chermette represents significant family-owned holdings in not just the south of Beaujolais but Beaujolais crus to the north as well. This winemaking family can trace its heritage in the wine world to the nineteenth century, but similar to the Famille Descombe and Château Thivin, they are constantly improving, expanding their reach within the region, and adapting to a changing climate. It’s a beautiful domaine to visit in the south of Beaujolais and serves as a true representation of high-quality and classic winemaking there. I loved their 2021 Fleurie “Les Garants” especially! You can book your visit via their website – they also have a wealth of local recommendations for your trip!

Day 5:

We had time for one last morning tasting in Beaujolais before catching our train to Paris, so we drove down to Régnié to meet Prunelle de Navacelle. Prunelle comes from a major wine producing family in Beaujolais-Lantignié (their domaine is called Château du Basty), but decided to strike out on her own a few years ago and works exclusively within regenerative, organic, and biodynamic agriculture. I can’t say I’m the first to write this but I certainly won’t be the last: Prunelle is one to watch. Her wines are vibrant and fresh – even in vintages like 2020 and 2022 where other producers in Beaujolais struggled to temper hot weather. Her Beaujolais-Lantignié is a perfect expression of dark cherry and violet with a soft and supple mouthfeel while her Régniés show a stunning balance of garrigue and raspberry. She might only have three working hectares now but that won’t last – not only does Prunelle have ambition to add Chardonnay to her lineup of wines but we could all use a bottle from her. There is extraordinary life in these wines.

The beauty and the warmth in Beaujolais is truly unlike any other French wine region I’ve visited. Despite climate change and a certain diminishing global interest in wine, there is a sincere optimism and passion here that I’ve not yet encountered elsewhere. The people in Southern Burgundy and Beaujolais truly know that their wines are special and that their time in the spotlight has come. Sound exciting?! Book your trip to the region and you won’t be sorry. It is beyond worth the trek.

Looking for more French wine region travel guides? Check out my Travel Guide to Alsace, plus posts on Bandol and the Côte d’Or!