The month the Loire Valley took center stage on my palate – even as Champagne took over NYC.
“I’m so glad I live in a world where there are Octobers,” wrote L.M. Montgomery in Anne of Green Gables. And really, with fall foliage, pumpkin patches, and apple picking, I agree. But the reality is that October is often more busy than it is beautiful – especially for the wine world in New York. It’s the time of year where one of my least favorite things occurs, drawing thousands of glittering, Champagne-obsessed world travelers to the city for a hedonistic weekend of nonstop bubbly drinking. This year, I wasn’t much able to participate, thanks to a cold-flu combo that knocked me out and kept me bedridden while the rest of the world joined for a glittered set of soirées around the city. The month still had some highlights, though, with stellar jewels shining through everywhere from Savoie to the Loire Valley. Here’s what I drank this October.
WINE #1: “La Croix au Garde”, Sancerre, Domaine Pellé, 2023 (18/20, Astor Wines)
Where I had it: At home at the end of the first week in October, paired with a homemade couscous Mediterranean bowl.
How much a bottle cost me: $0. I received this as a sample through a paid partnership with Vins du Centre Loire.
How much a bottle would cost you: $34. Get to purchasing this one, people. It’s just too good to pass up at this price.
OVERALL COMPOSITE SCORE: 18/20
- DRINKABILITY SCORE: 4/5 – Let me begin by saying that unfortunately, due to nearly a hundred years of high name ID in the U.S., there is a lot of mediocre Sancerre. This one is surely not one of them. It’s tart and luxurious, like a mini lemon curd from a Parisian patisserie, with medium body and a long finish.
- PAIRABILITY SCORE: 5/5 – There’s always going to be something about pairing Mediterranean food with Sauvignon Blanc. It just works. The lemon and yogurt flavors in the dressing of the dish go well when there’s a white wine that that speak to those flavors, lift them up, and pull them in. This Sancerre did that perfectly and the combination was a balanced bite I’ll have to have again!
- WALLET-ABILITY SCORE: 4/5 – At a time when Sancerre is getting pricier and pricier, $34 is a steal. I’d love if it were a couple bucks cheaper but I’m not expecting it. Sancerre has the brand name attached and a long history of Franco-American friendship. While you can find its neighbors to the east and west (Reuilly and Menetou-Salon) at a bit of a bargain, I’m not mad about paying $34 here.
- THE X FACTOR SCORE: 4/5 – Domaine Pellé is entering the fourth-generation of family ownership and converted to organic viticulture in 2020. Their name in the region is synonymous with quality and passion – it was Paul-Henry’s (the current owner) grandfather who advocated for the creation of the Menetou-Salon appellation and the additional terroir designation of “Morogues” on the label. Today, the family has 40 hectares of holdings across both appellations and makes both red and white wines.
WINE #2: “Champs Royaux”, Chablis, William Fèvre, 2023 (15/20, Wine.com)
Where I had it: At Bistro Versailles in Greenwich, Connecticut, as part of a Finding French Food partnership with TasteFrance.
How much a glass cost me: $0. We purchased this bottle as part of the meal for the shoot.
How much a bottle would cost you: $37. The 2023 vintage in particular seems to be sold out everywhere, but Wine.com has the 2022 in stock. Honestly, not bad for a good bottle of Chablis.
OVERALL COMPOSITE SCORE: 15/20
- DRINKABILITY SCORE: 3/5 – Textbook Chablis, but to be honest there was nothing to write home about here. It has all the flinty, straight minerality and lemon notes you’d want from a good bottle of Chablis but it finished with some oak notes and felt kind of heavy to me, so it isn’t my favorite from the appellation. Win some, lose some.
- PAIRABILITY SCORE: 4/5 – We paired this with with mussels, escargot, and fries (if it sounds extra French, that’s because it was part of a really fun, exciting partnership I did with the French Ministry of Agriculture on a French day trip to Greenwich, Connecticut. It was excellent with all three, and thankfully the salt from the fries tampered down that oak note I wasn’t a huge fan of.
- WALLET-ABILITY SCORE: 4/5 – At $37 – and at a time when prices in Burgundy just refuse to see reason – this is a good price. It kind of has that “bulk” Chablis feeling to it because of that oaky note but if you just need a great bottle of Chablis from a label that people will recognize, it’s not a bad option.
- THE X FACTOR SCORE: 4/5 – Fèvre is a massive name in the region, with 70 hectares, and it’s one of the largest owners of grand crus in Chablis as well. Yet, they are committed to environmental practices, with a majority of their land committed to organic and biodynamic practices as well as an HVE3 certification (according to the Lafite holding company website). It’s quite the feat given their size, so I give them four points here.
WINE #3: Vin de France, Blanc de Blancs Brut, Fête d’Or (14/20)
Where I had it: At a work happy hour in the Bellevue Hotel’s Pergola.
How much a glass cost me: $16.
How much a bottle would cost you: N/A. I couldn’t find this wine for sale anywhere by anyone, nor could I verify the exact region or location. I think it’s likely a cooperative wine, but the remaining details are fuzzy. It’s a shame, too, because it’s a great wine!
OVERALL COMPOSITE SCORE: 14/20
- DRINKABILITY SCORE: 4/5 – It’s bright and fun, with soft bubbles and notes of green apple. Lovely and lively acidity makes it great to go with any little bar snacks that might be laying around. Very pretty!
- PAIRABILITY SCORE: 4/5 – Great with a salty bar snack, like stuffed olives, nuts, or French fries. (Especially the French fries! What a delight.) It might struggle with something heartier but in the moment it was the perfect glass, so I can’t really fault it for delivering on what I hoped.
- WALLET-ABILITY SCORE: 4/5 – $16 is probably the cost of the bottle, so while it’s steep for a glass of bubbly with unknown origins, it’s a pretty great price if you were purchasing this at a wine shop. (And I hope I can find it… the hunt continues.)
- THE X FACTOR SCORE: 2/5 – There is absolutely zero information about this wine or its producers on the internet. Having scoured nearly a hundred Google pages from several searches, I was shocked by how little information was publicly available. Some say Vin de France, others insist Jura, more still say Savoie and Côtes du Rhône (the three are relatively close to each other but still – odd indeed).
WINE #4: Apremont, Vin de Savoie Blanc, Romain Chamiot, 2023 (16.5/20, RWM Selections)
Where I had it: During a work dinner at Wilder Restaurant in Philadelphia. I kind of love that Philadelphia seems to be a big fan of Savoie/Jura and Vin de France?! Let’s just say I’m intrigued and I can’t wait to go back to Philly.
How much a glass cost me: $15.
How much a bottle would cost you: $22.
OVERALL COMPOSITE SCORE: 16.5/20
- DRINKABILITY SCORE: 4/5 – This wine is so lovely that even Eric Asimov of the New York Times posted about it. Made 100% from local grape variety Jacquère, it was wonderfully aromatic with notes of fresh herbs, green grass, and white flowers. It was unique and approachable, yet lightweight. I’m so happy it’s easy to find this wine in shops, too!
- PAIRABILITY SCORE: 4/5 – Lovely with food, particularly burrata, ceviche, and light pastas. It was great with everything except the red sauce gnocchi we split and I can’t really blame it for that. Would be a great wine for an apéro or with tapas especially.
- WALLET-ABILITY SCORE: 5/5 – At $22 a bottle, this wine is available at a great price. And honestly, $15 for a glass isn’t too terrible, either (it should be $10 but that’s neither here nor there).
- THE X FACTOR SCORE: 3.5/5 – With only seven hectares of holdings, this is a small family-owned domaine. Romain Chamiot, the current proprietor and winemaker, is the seventh generation (7/7 – I kind of like the numerical consistency there). I couldn’t find out too much about their sustainability practices, but some sources on the internet insist there is an HVE certification in there somewhere. I’d like to learn more (and perhaps someday I’ll visit!), but for now they get 3.5 points.
WINE #4: Coteaux Bourguignons, Chauvet Frères, 2020 (15/20, Liquor Cave)
Where I had it: At a work dinner at Steak 48 in Philadelphia.
How much a bottle would cost you: $18. Honestly – a steal.
OVERALL COMPOSITE SCORE: 15/20
- DRINKABILITY SCORE: 4/5 – I wish restaurants had more wines like this on their menus. They’re just crowd-pleasers. Seated among co-workers with varying wine tastes and five different orders, it’s hard to pick a wine that everyone enjoys but this one pleased everyone from the natural wine lover to the California girl. Full of bramble fruit and crunchy, juicy red cherry notes, it’s a wine that doesn’t take itself too seriously and it just fun to drink.
- PAIRABILITY SCORE: 4/5 – This isn’t the type of wine you’d expect from a steakhouse, but I kind of love that it was on the menu. We had a mix of steak, seafood, and heavy sides at our table, so between the diversity of dishes and palates, picking a winner was no easy feat. It didn’t pair with absolutely everything but it made a good argument for most things. If I could pair this wine again, I’d probably go with risotto or even stuffing at a Thanksgiving table. Yum!
- WALLET-ABILITY SCORE: 5/5 – This price is crazy. The wine itself will be fantastic to have around for the holidays – especially Thanksgiving! Buy yourself half a case and you won’t regret it. At that price, you just can’t go wrong.
- THE X FACTOR SCORE: 2/5 – I couldn’t find out much about this wine – only that it is still a family-owned domaine in Beaujolais. Here’s hoping they add more information to their tech sheets about their organic practices, but for now I give them two points in good faith.
WINE #5: Côtes de Gascogne, Sud Ouest, Maison Henriette Dubourdieu, 2017 (16.5/20)
Where I had it: While recording a podcast with my friend Marcus Ginyard in Raleigh, North Carolina. Watch this space for updates! We had a great conversation and I can’t wait to share it with you.
How much a glass cost me: $0. Marcus was generous enough to open this bottle up for us to enjoy while recording.
How much a bottle would cost you: I was able to find a few French retailers sell this for about 10-15€, but I unfortunately was not able to find anything stateside.
OVERALL COMPOSITE SCORE: 16.5/20
- DRINKABILITY SCORE: 4/5 – Lovely, just lovely. Wines from the Sud Ouest often get a bad rap for being too “rustic” or even quirky, but this one was equal parts steely and elegant, lush and rough around the edges. Made from local grape varieties like Fer Servadou and Tannat, it’s a lovely blend of deep red berries and garrigue, with a spicy finish.
- PAIRABILITY SCORE: 5/5 – Sadly, I didn’t pair this with any food but it’s one of those wines that pairs amazingly with great conversation and the hope for a better world. Have I convinced you to listen to our podcast episode yet?!
- WALLET-ABILITY SCORE: 4/5 – 10-15€ is a great price for this wine, but it loses a point because it isn’t available stateside. Womp womp. I’d love if more wines from the Sud Ouest were imported – I think we have an audience for them here!
- THE X FACTOR SCORE: 3.5/5 – A small, family-owned domaine in the heart of the Adour Valley, Maison Henriette Dubourdieu is currently in conversion to organic agriculture and aims to achieve both that and HVE certification. I can’t wait to see how the domaine evolves in future years with sustainability front and center.
WINE #6: “St-Julien en St-Alban”, Côtes du Rhône, Eric Texier, 2020 (16/20, 67 Wine)
Where I had it: At home on a Friday night, paired with pizza.
How much a bottle cost me (and would cost you): $23. Another reasonably priced mid-level French wine. It’s the sweet spot for me and for almost everyone else and I’m not afraid to admit it.
OVERALL COMPOSITE SCORE: 16/20
- DRINKABILITY SCORE: 3/5 – The first note I wrote on this wine was, “Woah, this is a lot.” I ultimately decided it was just too intense, aromatic, and explosive for my palate, but I can certainly see why it would have appeal to those who love more extreme styles. It was juicy dark berries and wild rose and somehow, an hour into opening it, had an animal, almost bacon note to it. High tannin. High alcohol. High acid. I tend to prefer wines that have better balance and elegance, but this could be great at a barbecue. I love Texier’s Chat Fou and Brézème, but this one just wasn’t my favorite.
- PAIRABILITY SCORE: 4/5 – It’s a pretty good pizza wine. The cheese and the crust did the most they could to tame it and the tomatoes had a nice interplay with the juiciness on the palate, but I’d probably have a better experience with something from the Languedoc or a Chianti. Still, a fun one to pair.
- WALLET-ABILITY SCORE: 4/5 – Great on the wallet, what a steal! This wine is a great transitional sipper, so months like October, November, April or even May could be a great time to pull it out. Buy some now to put away if you know you’re a fan of this style.
- THE X FACTOR SCORE: 5/5 – Texier is somewhat of a legend in the organic, biodynamic, and minimal interventionist wine scene. Though his wines are not all certified biodynamic, it’s mostly because his philosophy is experimental by nature and evolves his approach year after year to better reflect the climatic conditions of each vintage. He single-handedly brought the Brézème appellation back to life and set a new standard for winemaking in the Rhône. If anyone deserves a full five points, it’s Texier.
WINE #7: Touraine Chenonceaux, Domaine de la Chaise, 2023 (15/20, Martin Brothers Wines)
Where I had it: At a lovely press dinner thrown by the Vins de Loire trade association.
How much a glass cost me: $0.
How much a bottle would cost you: $18. Another steal! This seems to have been the month for some really great value buys! If you’re on a budget, this is a list to refer back to.
OVERALL COMPOSITE SCORE: 15/20
- DRINKABILITY SCORE: 4/5 – As with so many wines I’ve reviewed this month, purity and simplicity reigned supreme. It’s a lemon peach acid bomb that keeps your lips puckered for a good second after the wine is finished. Fun, easy, and great on a boat tour. Or really, any day that you need a refreshing sip.
- PAIRABILITY SCORE: 4/5 – There is just something about Loire Sauvignon Blanc that makes it wildly food friendly. Paired with Atlantic Halibut in a Citrus Beurre Blanc and Leek Confit. Cut right through the butter but complemented the delicate texture of the fish perfectly. My type of food and my type of wine, ’nuff said.
- WALLET-ABILITY SCORE: 5/5 – These pricing are giving me hope for the future of French wine in the U.S. – tariffs and trade wars aside. $18 is a great price for quality SB and I love that this little appellation is growing in popularity as its varietal, Sauvignon Blanc is. Go buy some from Chenonceaux! It shares terroir with one of France’s greatest castles, after all.
- THE X FACTOR SCORE: 2/5 – A couple of whispers on the internet suggest that this domaine has HVE-certified wines, but I wasn’t able to verify that via tech sheets or the back label. For now, they get two points – with the hope that this will evolve as more information about the wine becomes available and/or their environmental commitment grows.
WINE #8: Saumur-Champigny, Vieilles Vignes, Château de Villeneuve, 2022 (18/20, Princeton Corkscrew)
Where I had it: At a lovely press dinner thrown by the Vins de Loire trade association.
How much a glass cost me: $0.
How much a bottle would cost you: $22. Ending with yet another exceptional Loire Valley value. God, I love the Loire.
OVERALL COMPOSITE SCORE: 18/20
- DRINKABILITY SCORE: 4/5 – Bright. Complex. Aromatic. It’s like eating a juicy, luxurious raspberry on the first day of the season. Gripping tannins complement that juiciness and acidity. You can’t help but go back for another sip. A delight.
- PAIRABILITY SCORE: 5/5 – My husband swears this paired amazingly well with the short rib bourguignon on offer that evening, but I also enjoyed how it paired with the mushroom pasta I was served. It’s so easy to pair food with Loire valley wines. It just works – almost every time.
- WALLET-ABILITY SCORE: 5/5 – If you take anything away from this month’s blog post, it’s that amazing value is still available in the Loire. Don’t think twice – go get some!
- THE X FACTOR SCORE: 4/5 – An organic-certified and family-owned domaine, Château Villeneuve stands out in a crowded space an consistently creates stellar Saumur. In addition to being certified organic, the château uses cover crops to preserve water and strives to create a biodiverse environment. With 25 hectares almost fully devoted to Cabernet Franc, their passion and love for this appellation shines through in every sip.
WINE #9: Extra Brut, Champagne Leclerc-Briant, 2019 (17/20, Maison Mura)
Where I had it: At a private party hosted by Champagne Leclerc-Briant and Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa. I still need to visit both the producer and the hotel but you guys know me – I don’t spend a ton of time in the region. Hope to make it out on my next trip!
How much a glass cost me: $0.
How much a bottle would cost you: $119.
OVERALL COMPOSITE SCORE: 17/20
- DRINKABILITY SCORE: 5/5 – It’s hard to knock this one. It’s a textbook high-end Champagne: silky bubbles, a mix of mineral and pear notes on the palate, and maybe just a little too easy to drink. I indulged in two glasses and wished I had stayed longer at the party to enjoy a third. Certainly a great Champagne to toast to an exceptional evening.
- PAIRABILITY SCORE: 5/5 – Someone once told me that a good bottle of Champagne pairs well with everything – and that person hasn’t been wrong yet. This one was great with all the appetizers on offer that evening. From caviar cones to tuna tartare and even the charcuterie board, there’s nothing
- WALLET-ABILITY SCORE: 3/5 – Eek. It’s a lovely Champagne but I struggle to even give it three points. For $119, I’d expect a “cru” on the label at the very least. Still, if you’re a big fan of the house and their vintaged style, it’s one to save away for a special occasion.
- THE X FACTOR SCORE: 4/5 – Along with Champagne Larmandier-Bernier, Leclerc Briant was one of the pioneers of biodynamics in Champagne in the mid-20th century. Not all of its growers are as biodynamic (and this specific wine is made from grapes that were still undergoing organic conversion) but they are making significant strides to challenge all their partners to go the extra mile for sustainability. It’s an admirable quest, so I give them four points.
Looking for more wine reviews? Check out the September Edition or my methodology post on Unfined + Unfiltered. Enjoy, santé !
