Where to eat, stay, and explore if you only have three days in the capital of the Côte d’Azur.
Home to a diverse mix of celebrities, old-school French families, and a melting pot of Europeans from across the continent, Nice is unlike any other place in France I’ve ever visited. From its glittering beach clubs to its beautiful old town and quiet residential neighborhoods, it has a real, authentic culture all its own. While there, I kind of dubbed it the French San Diego: beachy, relaxed, full of history, and littered with yachts. It serves as the perfect starting or ending point for a trip to the French Riviera or even Provence thanks to the availability of train lines and flights within both France and abroad. Here’s how to spend the perfect three days in the jewel of the south.
GETTING IN + AROUND
Thankfully, getting to Nice is pretty easy. From New York City, there’s actually a nonstop flight from Newark on United or on Delta from JFK. Makes getting there pretty simple from the East Coast (and honestly, it’s a large part of why I chose it)! From Nice, you can also take direct TGV trains from the train station to a wide variety of locations within Europe, and you can also fly directly to Nice from several European and UK hubs, like London Heathrow and Berlin.
Once you’re in, getting around is pretty easy, too. The city has a tramway, (with a line that goes directly through the airport – no need for an expensive taxi!) a robust bus system, and local trains that run fairly often to nearby small towns and villages (from Cannes and Antibes to Menton and western Italy). Each tramway system has a transit card machine and you pay per ride. You can buy all your train tickets at the train station or purchase them in advance using the SNCF CONNECT transit app (available in English as well as in French for ease of use). My favorite way to get around, though, was walking. The Promenade des Anglais is a stunning walkway that runs the length of Nice along the Mediterranean beach. It makes for a beautiful stroll or the most direct way to get into the old town.
WHERE TO STAY
Thanks to its massive tourism focus, there’s no shortage of places to stay in Nice! Unlike other areas in France, where Airbnbs are plentiful and really high-quality, I struggled to find a good one in the city, and opted instead for the Hôtel Amour – Nice. I cannot recommend this hotel enough! It’s located in a more quiet neighborhood away from the party scene and bustle of old Nice but was still centrally located and is a five minute walk to the beach. The hotel has a fantastic restaurant, beautiful rooms, a rooftop with a pool, and its own private beach, La Plage Amour. If you’re looking for a splurge, La Pérouse is stunning and came highly recommended as well.
DAY 1
If your first day in Nice is on a Friday or Saturday between June and September, I highly recommend taking the little navette shuttle bus up to visit the wine region in the hills just north of the city: Bellet. It’s one of France’s oldest winemaking regions – with origins dating back to the 5th century B.C. Most of the producers accept walk-ins, but you’ll need to make a reservation at Collet de Bovis (one of my favorite wines from the region – worth a visit if you love small producers!)
A must-visit in the wine region, however, is the appellation’s largest producer: Château de Crémat. Its colorful, imposing art-déco style house and grounds today house an art museum as well as a tasting area and wine shop. Book a tour and you’ll notice the Chanel logo everywhere – Château de Crémat served as the inspiration for Coco Chanel’s eponymous label!
After a long day of wine tasting, make a dinner reservation at Lavomatique, a tiny, hole-in-the-wall restaurant serving up some of Nice’s most delicious food. Everything at Lavomatique is sourced locally from small producers and every wine on the rotating list is organic, biodynamic, and often created through regenerative agriculture. The menu is divine and the waitstaff are a cast of multilingual characters that make people watching a spectator sport. Don’t miss it and make a reservation well in advance!
DAY 2
Blessed with a sunny, warm day during your time in Nice? Spend it at the beach! If you’re staying at the Hôtel Amour, you can get a spot at the Plage Amour reserved for you by the front desk. Spend the whole day staring out into the Mediterranean with beachside food and refreshments. They’re a bit overpriced but the front row view of the Med is unbeatable.
If you’re more of a public beach-goer, you might want to head out to Juan-les-Pins or Antibes, both of which are a couple quick train stops from the center of town and have sandy beaches (versus the pebbles in Nice). Before you go, though, make sure to grab a couple of sandwiches from Panivore! This fun little sandwich spot has some delicious combos perfect for a day in the sun. You can even order to-go from the website in advance.
After a fun day in the sun, head over to Babel Babel for dinner. This delightful Greek and Mediterranean spot looks right out onto the Promenade des Anglais for a beautiful sunset view (not to mention the people watching).
DAY 3
Start your final day in the city with a morning stroll to the Flower Market at Cours Saleya (or, if your last day is on a Monday, the antiques market is just as excellent and in the same spot). Grab a couple of sandwiches to go from Panivore or a local bakery, and hike up for a picnic lunch at Colline du Château. Located on the edge of the Vieille Ville, Le Château can trace is origins back to the Roman period but the grounds were completely renovated at the turn of the 20th century, when it was transformed into a beautiful public park and children’s play area. It has some of the most incredible views of Nice – and not just from the top! The winding, stone pedestrian path has stunning vistas around every corner.
Walk back down the hill and take the bus or tramway out to the Musée Matisse in the north of the city. Matisse’s life on the French Riviera produced some iconic paintings, many of which feature that signature Mediterranean blue and are worth admiring in person. A ticket to the museum not only grants you access to view Matisse’s masterpieces but also the Underwater Archaeology Museum, which is an absolutely fascinating addition if you’ve got another free hour. Don’t miss it!
For a quick drink after all that sight-seeing, I can’t recommend Le Barrique Wine Bar enough. This tiny little hole-in-the-wall spot has delicious small plates and one of my favorite concepts in wine: no wine menus. Instead, you tell the server what you’re in the mood for, and they’ll bring you out something that suits your vibe. All wines at Le Barrique are organic and biodynamic and many are made in the natural style. End your trip in style with excellent food for dinner at Le Patio of Hotel La Pérouse. This beautiful, upscale restaurant, nestled in one of Nice’s most exquisite luxury enclaves, feels equal parts romantic and intimate.
Nice has been admired by travelers around the world for centuries due to its proximity to the glittering Mediterranean, the border with Italy, and slow-living à la française. A real mélange of people, lifestyles, architecture, and history, there’s something here for everyone. If you only have three days to spend in the city, you won’t be disappointed. Enjoy exploring! Bon voyage !
Looking for more quick French travel guides? Check out my 48 Hours in Champagne, 72 Hours in Strasbourg, or The Paris List.
