January Wine Reviews: A Fresh Summer Evening, An Exceptional Glass, and a Hard Pass

Well, this has been the beginning of a beautiful experiment.

As a disclaimer: I swear to God I normally do not drink Burgundy almost exclusively (?!). I actually have no idea how that happened. Burgundian or not, though, this month’s wines surprised me – in more ways than one. I went back to a few appellations I’d gotten used to overlooking and was both pleasantly surprised and let down. Here are the five French wines I drank this month and my unfiltered options of them.

WINE #1: Domaine des Terres de Chatenay, Mâcon-Péronne 2023, Burgundy (14.5/20 points – Available at Moore Brothers)

Where I had it: Kitchen Step (Downtown Jersey City). I cannot recommend this restaurant enough. This is easily one of the best date-night spots in Jersey City and it’s (for some reason?!) a secret. It took my husband and I three years of living downtown before we stumbled into it and we now can’t wait to go back. Fantastic wine list, really solid menu options, and housemade mozzarella. Make a reservation – you won’t regret it.

How much a glass cost me: $18 – I’ll admit, it’s a little steep for what this wine is, but that’s the reality of the American restaurant industry for you. The bottle at $24 punches well above it’s weight, and that’s why I’m giving it a 3/5 on wallet-ability as below.

How much a bottle would cost: $24 – If you’re in NJ, Delaware, or can drive 10 minutes from the Philly area, you can get this from Moore Brothers.

OVERALL COMPOSITE SCORE: 14.5/20

  • DRINKABILITY SCORE: 4/5 – If you want the escape of a fresh summer evening on a dreary January night, this wine is it. Pure Burgundy terroir in a way that feels relatable and clean. Sipping it felt like I was overlooking a vista in Mâcon in June, breathing in the evening dew. It is mineral, slightly floral, and a wonderful way to mark the end of a long week.
  • PAIRABILITY SCORE: 5/5 – Talk about the ideal wine for a restaurant menu. But let’s be frank, I didn’t expect that. I had extremely low expectations for this wine. Here’s the thing: most wines at restaurants in Jersey City are pretty terrible. They’re a weird amalgamation of stuff the manager thinks people are drinking even though said manager clearly doesn’t drink wine or pair it themselves. (I’m getting spicy here, but it’s the truth, and quite frankly, Jersey City needs to up its game.) I can’t even tell you how many date nights my husband and I have gone to in Jersey City and been nothing but extremely disappointed in the wine lists. This one actually felt made for everything we ate. We started off with the restaurant’s house-made mozzarella on house-made focaccia – delightful. I then had the Idaho Trout with some beautifully roasted potatoes and creamed spinach. This wine carried perfectly with all of it. If I were to buy it again (and I hope I do) I’ll make a little cheeseboard at home – and make sure some mozzarella was on it. Hats off to you, Kitchen Step Beverage team!
  • WALLET-ABILITY SCORE: 3/5 – For a one-off bottle with the quality you get here, I wanted to give this a 5/5, but my personal experience of it was through a restaurant lens, which made it pricier than it should be. It’s the name of the game, but it was expensive for one glass. If I were to buy a bottle though (and I hope to!) for casual drinking at home, I’d give it 5/5.
  • THE X FACTOR SCORE: 2.5/5 – In researching this winery, all I could find was a little write up in French on the BIVB (Bourgogne Wine Association) website. It’s a ~10 hectare domaine run by a husband and wife team with a minimalist intervention approach. I give them an extra half point for being family-owned and operated, and I love that it’s a duo. I get the sense they’ve got the potential to do great things, but might not be there yet. Here’s one to watch for sure.

WINE #2: Domaine Cabissou, “Les Fouillouses”, Juliénas 2022, Beaujolais (6/20 points)

Where I had it: At home on a Friday night after a very long week, with a little cheese and veggie platter pre-dinner. And while that might sound like a nice like apéro moment featuring one of my favorite regions, this wine actually broke me emotionally. It has everything that I normally gravitate toward: newcomer winemaker in Beaujolais, friends with the other winemakers I know and love (Anne-Sophie Dubois, who I had the pleasure of meeting, is friends with the founder of this label, according to the internet – and I do so love her wines), the wine is a Cru that does not get enough love, it’s organic and biodynamic and natural, and it is from a small holding (versus big producer). I almost didn’t add this wine to the review list because it was so heartbreaking to try to drink (more on that below), but in order to stay true to the experiment, I knew I had no choice.

How much a bottle cost me (and would cost you): $40. I bought it at a local wine store but given the score and the tasting notes below, I sadly (devastatingly) cannot recommend this wine to you.

Overall Composite Score: 6/20

  • DRINKABILITY SCORE: 0/5 – I’m sorry but this is a natural wine that is sadly undrinkable. I do not know if something horrible occurred in transit somewhere – at first glance the wine visually did not display any errors or faults. It was a clear and beautiful ruby that felt very promising from the moment I poured it. The aroma, however, can best be described as rotten egg with a touch of smoke. I tried smelling and tasting it at different temperatures, hoping beyond hope that this would chemically alter it to be something I could happily drink but nothing could save it. There were no flavors in the mouth, either – the best way I can describe that would be weird-tasting water. Probably one of the stranger at-home wine experiences I’ve ever had.
  • PAIRABILITY SCORE: 0/5 – Sadly the undrinkable nature of this bottle meant it could not pair with anything. Extra shameful because I typically find good Cru Beaujolais to be incredibly food-friendly.
  • WALLET-ABILITY SCORE: 2/5 – Cru Beaujolais at $40 is still a good price in the U.S. – especially from a small, environmentally-minded producer. However, spending $40 on a wine you can’t drink is sad indeed. If this had been as good as I’d hoped, it would have been closer a 4 or a 5.
  • THE X FACTOR SCORE: 4/5 – The highest score goes to the X factor because of the reasons I mentioned above: clearly this domaine is part of a group that is doing things the right way in Beaujolais, which makes the disappointing nature of the bottle even sadder. I’m adding this producer to my list of ones to try again and give a second chance.

WINE #3: SVP, Côtes du Rhône Villages Signargues, 2022, Rhône (16/20 – Available at Astor Wines)

Where I had it: Curled up at home on a cold, snowy January evening, while my husband and I planned a staycation date night to see a Broadway show and visit a museum we’d never been to. It was soft and warm, like a fuzzy blanket, and paired perfectly with the Diptyque Feu de Bois candle we’d lit (I splurge on one every winter and light it when I’m in need of relaxation and aromatherapy. Hefty price tag, but I can’t get over my addiction to the Diptyque scents. It’s my toxic trait.).

How much a bottle cost me (and would cost you): $14. I got it from Astor Wines, one of my go-to retailers. They ship to a number of states even though they’re based in NYC.

Overall Composite Score: 16/20

  • DRINKABILITY SCORE: 4/5 – You would never, ever guess that this wine is 14.5% alcohol. It is beautifully balanced and impeccably made. There is a real sense with this wine that it was created entirely unpretentiously just for the enjoyment of drinking it amongst friends. I like it. We need more wines like this.
  • PAIRABILITY SCORE: 5/5 – I could easily see this pairing well with just about everything. Girl dinner (charcuterie + cheese board), a salad with anchovy dressing and hard-boiled eggs, a hearty winter rice dish, or even stew. Possibilities here are endless.
  • WALLET-ABILITY SCORE: 5/5 – This is an insane value for money. Since it comes from what appears to be a cooperative, there’s minimal branding or story-telling involved, no egos, no problem. As a result it is offered stateside at an unbelievable price. Buy a few bottles and drink it all winter long.
  • THE X FACTOR SCORE: 2/5 – Not much is known about this winery and cooperative, but it gets two points for its organic certification.

WINE #4: Edouard Delaunay, Puligny-Montrachet (Le Village), 2022, Burgundy (12/20)

Where I had it: At home at the end of a long day with Cheeze-Its (are you noticing a trend here?! Let’s just say wine is a big part of my relaxation / end-of-week ritual).

How much a bottle cost me: $0. True to my word – this was a sample bottle I got a couple months ago but hadn’t gotten around to trying yet.

How much a bottle would cost you: $100. It’s pricey and it’s the price range that gives Burgundy a bit of a mixed reputation. That being said, after quite a lot of searching, I could not find this bottle of wine available for purchase anywhere. If you find it – let me know! I’d love to update this post with an e-commerce link so my readers can try it themselves.

Overall Composite Score: 12/20. This wine needs time, and part of me really knew that when I decided to open it up. I wanted to give it a shot anyway, but ultimately this one should be laid down for a hot minute (until at least 2027, if I were to try it again). You never know!

  • DRINKABILITY SCORE: 3/5 – As with most wines from Bourgogne, this wine will get better with time – and it needs it. It’s drinkable now, for sure, but it needs months and months to really marinate with the oxygen and age. It certainly improved once it had been open for a while, which I always recommend trying for a wine you’re not loving at first sip, but if I repeated this process in 2027, I know it would get a higher score. I tried this on two different evenings to really form my opinion. The first night it was simply not ready. All oak and butter and very little perceived nuance to my nose. Yet, after a few nights in the fridge, I broke it back out and was pleasantly surprised to find it had really developed a depth and level of tertiary flavors that made it sing. Very pretty – notes or ripe apple and pear, white florals – and the acidity is exceptional with anything that’s just a little bit salty.
  • PAIRABILITY SCORE: 4/5 – Cheeze-Its were a perfect pairing (judge me all you want but I know we all love a high-low pairing, let’s be real). This is a wine that needs a salty food accompaniment. I could also see it working with salted popcorn, walnuts or almonds, or an aged cheese. I also think the pairing profile will improve with age.
  • WALLET-ABILITY SCORE: 1.5/5 – For the level of Burgundy this officially is – and keeping in mind what I’ve noted above – I personally don’t think this offers much value for money. Not surprising, given the region. That being said there are better quality to price ratios out there for this level of Burgundy wine that I know of (including from this producer), meaning I can’t give this a higher score than a 1.5.
  • THE X FACTOR SCORE: 3.5/5 – I like what the Delaunay family in general is doing in Burgundy and the story of their rebirth is quite something (you can read more about it here). There are some truly great wines from within the portfolio. Its CEO, Laurent Delaunay, is the president of the BIVB and is certainly well-respected in the region of his relationships with growers and other négociants as well. I’ll definitely be watching this ambitious brand.

WINE #5: Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Givry Premier Cru, 2022, Burgundy (16/20 – Available at Empire State of Wine)

Where I had it: A friend of mine represents this wine, so we got drinks at La Compagnie’s newest Flatiron location, where she brought this as a BYOB (with permission! Don’t try this at home, kids.)

How much a bottle cost me: $0. Like I said, I’m a wine blogger, so I do get to drink wines for free. Contrary to popular belief, it’s not why I got into the business, but I’m grateful for the access it’s given me.

How much a bottle would cost you: $70. Because it’s the Côte Chalonnaise, we’re getting a bit more value for money here, which I love to see. And – spoiler alert – honestly I would buy this wine myself for that price.

Overall Composite Score: 16/20

  • DRINKABILITY SCORE: 5/5 – WOW. This was one of the best things I drank this month – by a long shot. It was beautiful and soft, like stepping into a warm silk bath. An absolutely stunning wine that has made me want to try more from not only this producer but Givry and the Côte Chalonnaise in general. Aside from its textural beauty, this wine is so wonderfully complex and layered: think blueberry and bramble fruit and crushed violet bouquets. An exceptional wine that I will absolutely be returning to.
  • PAIRABILITY SCORE: 4/5 – Great with food. We enjoyed this wine with a few appetizers, including black pepper gougères, olive tapenade, and more. I think it would be better paired overall with a main course and could easily see it working with an elegant filet of sea bass or salmon, chicken thighs, or pork tenderloin. It’s also just one of those wines that deserves its own moment as part of a menu you pull together because it is just so beautiful.
  • WALLET-ABILITY SCORE: 3/5 – Not quite as budget-friendly as I might expect from one of the lower Burgundian regions but because of the incredible quality here, I am giving it a 3/5. It may not have the prestige of its neighbors to the north so I think a better price for it would be somewhere between $50-60 on the U.S. market but I can also respect that this wine is something special so the case can be made either way.
  • THE X FACTOR SCORE: 4/5 – This domaine has a fascinating history. Having been around since the 12th century, it is one of Burgundy’s oldest. After trading hands for hundreds of years, it most recently was purchased by the Pascal family in 2004, which has vastly modernized the winemaking approach, turning it organic in 2015 and biodynamic shortly thereafter. The domaine started with five hectares but has been strategically expanding its holdings within the Côte Chalonnaise, Beaujolais, and Burgundy for the last decade or so and the resulting portfolio is definitely one to watch.

With only five wines tasted this month, I suppose I did have a bit of a “damp” January after all. The two best that I highly recommend are the Givry from Domaine du Cellier aux Moines and the absolute SLEEPER of a Côtes du Rhône, SVP from the cooperative. (I still can’t get over how good it was for the price.) I promise I’ll be a little more diverse with the February list – but let’s be honest, there will probably always be something from Beaujolais in these reviews. I just can’t help what I gravitate toward. Here’s to another month of good wine everyone, santé !

Looking for more wine recommendations? Check out the 8 Superb French Wines I (Opened) For the Olympic Games or How These Beautiful Champagnes Changed My Life. See you next month!

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