I’m breaking up with Côtes du Rhône. At least, temporarily.
In March, the sun made a triumphant return, and with it, a collective breath and a will to live. Despite all the tumult in both the world and my personal life, it felt like we had a shred of optimism at long last as the wintry winds died down and the sun stayed out past six pm. Not every wine I had this month was stellar (and I’ll be taking a little break from bad Côtes du Rhône because – yikes) but it was a solid group that made tough moments easier. Santé to the little things. Here’s what I drank and how it all went.
WINE #1: Pinot Noir “Stein”, Domaines Schlumberger, 2022 (16/20)
Where I had it: At a private tasting with Thomas Schlumberger, who recently visited New York City to meet with other wine writers and firm up relations with the domaine’s U.S. importer and distributor network. It wasn’t the only Pinot Noir I tasted that day but it is the one that stood out the most.
How much a glass cost me: $0
How much a bottle would cost you: $X – This wine is coming to the U.S. this fall, but it hasn’t yet been officially released, nor has it been given an official price. Off the top of my head, I’d estimate (pre-tariff madness) that it will probably fall somewhere between $40-60.
OVERALL COMPOSITE SCORE: 16/20
- DRINKABILITY SCORE: 4/5 – What a beautiful Pinot Noir. Alsace has really upped its Pinot Noir game recently (now two of its grands crus can be made with Pinot Noir which is a first and a huge step for the region!). The Stein 2022 is a lovely example that – while not a grand cru – can compete with village level if not premier cru Burgundy for its complexity and age-ability. Think black cherry, purple pansies, and concentrated blueberry. A luxurious, taut wine that will continue to grow and improve in another decade.
- PAIRABILITY SCORE: 4/5 – This is one of those wines that will absolutely improve with food. It is structured enough that it could easily stand up to meat but as a vegetarian, I actually think I’d want to eat it with a mushroom or vegetable risotto of some kind. Something to bring out that earthiness would probably be best. Alsace’s Pinot Noir tradition isn’t quite as “forest floor” as its Burgundian cousins but there is still a little something there.
- WALLET-ABILITY SCORE: 3/5 – I can’t quite rank this yet because the official price isn’t out on the market. Once it’s joined though, I’ll be sure to update this post with a more accurate price point and score here!
- THE X FACTOR SCORE: 5/5 – Schlumberger is the first domaine to receive five points in my rating system in this category. Why, you might ask? In addition to being HVE level 3 certified and almost entirely organic throughout 140+ hectares of vines, they are also the only corporate level winemaker in Alsace that has a Corporate Social Responsibility initiative certified by the Vignerons Engagés. In talking with Thomas about the domaine’s commitment to the future, I could tell that responsible business practice was truly in the region’s DNA. That exists elsewhere in France but most producers focus first on the vines (understandably so) and haven’t yet turned their attention specifically to labor and hiring practices throughout the organization. Kudos to you, Schlumberger. I hope they continue to be a leader in this area.
WINE #2: “L’effet Papillon”, Roc des Anges, Côtes Catalanes 2023 (16/20, Flatiron Wines)
Where I had it: At home with taco takeout from Tacoria, because I needed to pair my beloved go-to taco order with a bottle of wine that actually complemented it (if you don’t know what I’m talking about, my February Wine Reviews will explain it). Did I get redemption for this pairing? Not quite. This wine didn’t really have enough body to hold up to the complexity of my Brussels Sprouts Chipotle Tacos, so I’ll have to live to redeem this pairing another day. (Yes, I’ll still keep trying. The perfect match is out there somewhere.)
How much a bottle cost me (and would cost you): $16
OVERALL COMPOSITE SCORE: 16/20
- DRINKABILITY SCORE: 4/5 – I wrote down one note in my wine journal for this wine, and that was “really nice”. Descriptive, I know. Clearly, I was lacking just a little bit of inspiration this month, but needless to say this is a simple, easy-to-drink, delicious wine that just works for springtime. I feel like the Roussillon, where this wine comes from, is long overdue for a comeback. It also happens to be pretty high on my visit list (because I’m sorry but have you seen that landscape?!). I get the sense great things are happening there and hopefully we’ll get to witness – and drink – all of it soon.
- PAIRABILITY SCORE: 3/5 – This was a little meh with my tacos, so I couldn’t give it a higher score than a three. That being said, I do feel like this wine would be great at an apéro, a complex spring or summer salad, or even grilled fish. It’s quite light so you might not be able to get away with a pairing that has a heavy sauce or a lot of salt, but this is a great wine to enjoy al fresco with friends.
- WALLET-ABILITY SCORE: 5/5 – I mean who doesn’t love an affordable spring or summer white wine? For $16, this is a pretty great deal.
- THE X FACTOR SCORE: 4/5 – Organic? Check. Biodynamic? Check. Small couple owning and operating everything? Check. This domaine is doing everything right and I can’t wait to see where they go from here. I need to try their red wines next!
WINE #3: LOUIS, Louis Bernard, Côtes du Rhône Villages, 2020 (6/20)
Where I had it: The weather was pretty mercurial this month, so I opened this one on a particularly cold, windy evening and curled up on the couch with it. I wish it had brought me the comfort I so desperately wanted that evening, but alas, Côtes du Rhône seems to consistently dupe me.
How much a bottle cost me (and would cost you): $19. I can’t quite remember where I bought this one a few years back but the internet seems to agree the general SRP is around $18-20 depending on where you are in the U.S. That being said, I don’t recommend this wine, so spend your $20 elsewhere!
OVERALL COMPOSITE SCORE: 6/20
- DRINKABILITY SCORE: 1/5 – *insert heavy sigh here*. As evidenced by the three months of wine reviews I’ve done so far, I am a big fan of affordable French wines. I like to think that the value-driven regions still have so much to offer the world and rarely get the due they deserve. Yet… it’s easy to see why so many of these regions get the flack. Having opened two terrible Côtes du Rhônes back-to-back now, I’m going to have to take a break from the category and I see you when you say, “Côtes du Rhône wines aren’t reliable”, because I’ve been there. This wine is just not it. It was all an overwhelming one note that I can best describe as expired dark chocolate. My husband, who is originally from Northern California, took a quick sip of this wine and asked me – in confusion – if I had purchased a cheap Napa Cab on accident. Yikes. Is it drinkable in general? Sure – no faults here. But I couldn’t get past the first glass. I know the appellation and the region in general can do better, but this is just one of many examples where the INAO should probably update its quality system.
- PAIRABILITY SCORE: 1/5 – Maybe it would pair well with expired dark chocolate…? You get the gist. In general, going to be a no from me.
- WALLET-ABILITY SCORE: 2/5 – For the $20 range, this wine had the potential to be a pretty good quality to price ratio, yet here we are. I’m still giving it two points because it’s still a decent price, but obviously the quality of the wine just doesn’t merit more.
- THE X FACTOR SCORE: 2/5 – This producer is mostly in the négociant business, and while I couldn’t find out too much about the origin of all the grapes and vineyards (kind of a red flag if I’m being totally honest), there is language in some tech sheets about environmental standards and organic grapes. Sorry, but it’s 2025. We can do better than that. Two points for perhaps more of an effort than the internet tells me, but I would suspect they’ve got a long way to go here.
WINE #4: Le Vieux Bourg, Moulin à Vent, Domaine Mont Bessay, 2022 (17/20, Backroom Wines)
Where I had it: One of my oldest friends came up to visit mid-March to spend the weekend in NYC and take me to a professional women’s hockey game (go Sirens). We opened this bottle to warm up when we got back from the match and paired it with snacks, conversation, and a board game. (If you must know, the board game was Catan and yes, we are aware that we are major dorks.)
How much a bottle cost me: $0. It was a sample! One of the only ones I had this month. If these crazy tariffs go through, though, you’ll probably catch me drinking a lot more samples. I’m a girl on a budget.
How much a bottle would cost you: $55. I’ll be honest, I think this is a little steep for cru Beaujolais but it’s not so out of the question that it gets low points here because this wine is delicious.
OVERALL COMPOSITE SCORE: 17/20
- DRINKABILITY SCORE: 5/5 – What a beauty. There is characteristic Beaujolais here (think red fruit like ripe raspberry or spring cherry) but there is also a hint of something greener present as well. It’s not so serious that you can’t enjoy it without food but it’s also not so easily drinkable that you’re chugging it on a patio. This is a social sipping wine, and a great one at that. Definitely a Moulin à Vent I would happily return to.
- PAIRABILITY SCORE: 4/5 – This was great with snack foods BUT I also tried it a few days later with a middle-eastern chickpea and quinoa veggie bowl that my husband and I made at home and it was pretty delightful. Just goes to show you that sometimes the best pairings are the ones you’d least expect and that a good wine can pair with quite a lot of food.
- WALLET-ABILITY SCORE: 3/5 – Many of the Beaujolais crus are going up in price and I hate it. I get it – I do – there’s only so much land to go around and the quality of the winemaking is just getting better and better. But a part of me still adores Beaujolais because it has an “every man” quality about it while still producing exceptional juice. For me, Beaujolais kind of embodies the spirit of the working man, the proletariat. Beaujolais is meant to be enjoyed by all of us, not just the uber-wealthy who splurge on Krug and Romanée-Conti, and I don’t want it to go in that direction. In that spirit, I’m giving this wine a 3/5. If it went down to $45, it would earn a point back.
- THE X FACTOR SCORE: 4/5 – This domaine is part owned by the same family in charge at Domaine du Cellier aux Moines (I reviewed their Givry in my January Wine Reviews), and part owned by the winemaker at Cellier aux Moines as well. I love that it’s a joint venture that feels equitable and they take the same approach to sustainability as next door in Burgundy: organic and biodynamic.
WINE #5: Le Vignoble Féodal, Burg, Cru d’Alsace, Marcel Deiss 2014 (18/20, iDealWine)
Where I had it: At home on another cold and windy night. I really didn’t want to leave the house in March. Even though we had sun, temperatures were pretty brutal until the last few days of the month when we all felt alive again.
How much a bottle cost me (and would cost you): $40. I got it at auction from French retailer iDealWine (they ship to the U.S.!) but it doesn’t look like they have this exact wine anymore. They do, however, have quite a few options from Deiss if you’re in the market.
OVERALL COMPOSITE SCORE: 18/20
- DRINKABILITY SCORE: 5/5 – This wine is true magnificence if ever there was such a thing in a wine. Despite trendy wine critics’ general dismissal of it (cc: The New French Wine, oy), Alsace continues to be underrated worldwide. I get it – it’s a big region, its cru system is kind of weird and non-unified, and the linguistics of some of the words feel foreign. I think we can all agree, though, that there is truly something remarkable about its well-executed, aged crus. This is one such example. At 11 years of age, it was in prime drinking window and I’m glad I opened it when I did. This is a wine in the “Gentil” tradition, meaning it’s a blend between some of Alsace’s most famous varieties, including Pinot Noir, Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Muscat. It’s off-dry and fragrant. Reminded me of an end-of-summer fruit and brandy-like compote of figs, bruised apple, honey, and baking spices. A very unique cuvée.
- PAIRABILITY SCORE: 4/5 – This wine would be amazing with a dessert that’s not-so-sweet, like carrot cake, rhubarb pie, or even olive oil cake. I had it with some candied almonds and it was also pretty great. I can’t see this working all to well with anything on the salad or appetizer side of things but it could probably complement a main course that flirts with sweet and savory or features a heavy sauce.
- WALLET-ABILITY SCORE: 5/5 – At $40, this was an absolute banger. One of the reasons I constantly find myself returning to Alsace is because it continues to be so affordable (perhaps due to the fact that it is devastatingly not well known internationally) all while pushing the boundaries of modern winemaking. This is a great price for aged cru d’Alsace.
- THE X FACTOR SCORE: 4/5 – If you don’t know, now you know: Deiss is pretty much a legend. Not only is the domaine organic and biodynamic but their plots follow ancient traditions of Alsace winemaking in that they are not divided by grape variety. That’s right – they’re what’s called co-plantation or co-planted, meaning that the domaine plants multiple varieties of grapes together in a single plot versus parsing them out. The domaine also plants trees on its property and is passionate about agroforestry and species biodiversity. It’s the kind of approach we need in this day and age. Just another reason to love the wines from this place (and an explanation for its cult following).
So long, Côtes du Rhône. Maybe we’ll come back together in the summer when I’m craving something to go with barbecue or need a rosé that doesn’t come from Provence. In the meantime, I’ll be happy with Alsace and Beaujolais. Stock up on a few of these beauties while you can and santé to the arrival of spring !
Looking for more wine reviews? Check out the February Reviews and stay tuned for more!
